It never ceases to be a thrill to release new wines from one of our heroes, Jean Delobre at La Ferme Des Sept Lunes: a 10-hectare farm perched in one of the highest areas of St Joseph. Visiting involves a tortuous 350m road-climb from the valley floor. The hair-pins are not for the faint-hearted.
The latest of three generations on the family farm, he took over from his parents in 1984, began organic conversion in '96, later converting to biodynamics in 2001- the year he decided to leave the local co-op and focus on vinifying on his own. Parcels are mostly on steep slopes over granite, with a little sandy clay topsoil.
Jean was joined in 2017 by his dear friend Jaques Maurice, also looking to leave the local co-op to have more input over his own fruit. A companion to help in the vines and the cave has certainly energised Jean, and the wines seem to have found even more focus in recent years.
We've received a full brace of their parcellaire cuvees from the 21, 20, and 19 vintages, along with the much-loved VDF wines from 2021.
The Syrah's from 2021 of course share the delicate lift and perfume of an incredibly fresh vintage, but those released from the warmer 2020 and 2019 vintages are startling in their similar lightness of heart, and precision.
Jean is masterful in his balance, but credits much of it to his fruit, and retaining the energy in the parcels, which burst with life.
Speaking with Jean this morning, he remarked on the freshness of 2021, a year he was pleased to get under his belt following the hat-trick of hot dry years prior, it's among his favourite vintage of recent years.
Now Available:
2021 - VDF Syrah - Syrah
Syrah picked from the north side of the commune of Bogy, just outside the appellation, neighbouring the Glou parcel. A cooler site, requiring patience to await ripening. 2/3 destemmed, 1/3 carbonic fermentation. Aged in tank for 8 months. No additions. Wonderfully aromatic, pure-fruited and supple this year.
2021- VDF Glou - Gamay
From a 50ares parcel north of Bogy, 2/3 destemmed, 1/3 as cluster carbonic fermentation. Aged in tank for 9 months. No additions. Lively, crunchy fruit and a pencil-line of tannic structure, proper Glou.
2021 - VDF Viognier - Marsanne - Viognier, Marsanne
With not enough Roussane in 2021, Jean decided to just make one St Joseph white this year (Lune Rousse) and use the Marsanne for his non-AOC blend with Viognier, over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed to tank for vinifcation and ageing for 9 months. No additions.
2021 - Saint Joseph - Lune Rousse - Roussane
The Roussane is from a younger parcel of vines on the plateau beside Jean's house, vinified in tank and aged for a year in concrete egg and a larger old barrel, with no additions. Absolutely pristine.
The Saint-Joseph reds are all made more-or-less to the same method, unless specified: de-stemmed, with a three week maceration in tank, with just a touch of remontage at the beginning whilst it gets going.
2020 - Saint Joseph Premier Quartier - Syrah
From parcels on an east-facing slope at 330m, over lots of granitic gravel. Plantings from the early 1980's and massal selection vines from 2006-2008. 12 months ageing in big old Bordeaux barrels. Just 10mg/l sulphur at bottling. Broad-shouldered and black-fruited, but with lovely fresh acidity.
2019 - Saint Joseph Pleine Lune - Syrah
Pleine Lune is a south-facing slope, among the warmest of the farm's parcels of Syrah. Aged for 12 months in large 600l barrels. Softer and supple. Plump, juicy fruit held together with a beautiful through-line of acidity. No additions.
2019 - Saint Joseph Halo Sur Le Baudet - Syrah
2018 - Saint Joseph Halo Sur Le Baudet (MAGNUM) - Syrah
From Jaques four south-facing parcels, mostly granite, with one parcel over limestone. They've been experimenting with the vinifications for this one. In 2018 (available this year in Magnum only) they had 30% whole bunch in the blend, which they upped to 50% in 2019. Jean and Jaques have been enjoying the results, and have continued to up the ratio in years since.
Incredibly long and precise, with delicate, chalky tannins offering a nice line of contrast.
2019 - Saint Joseph Chemin Faisant - Syrah
The oldest vines, planted in 1974 from massal selection, close to the Premier Quartier parcel, but on much shallower soils, over almost pure granite. 12 months in demi-muid, no additions. This is the fullest of the tranche we've received, with deep cassis fruit and spice, beautifully integrated acidity.
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Photographs of Jean & the vineyards by our pal Bryan McComb