We are so thrilled to have just received a kaleidoscope of new 2023 releases from Yann Durrmann in Andlau, Alsace.
2023 was another warm vintage (2022 the hottest on record) but with much more balance, and plenty of rain. A generous vintage in yields, and good maturity, Yann picked a little earlier than he usually would to retain the crispy acidity he loves best. Thanks to more accessible nitrogen, and a canny practice of macerating all his whites for 24 hours before pressing, fermentations were fast and healthy in 2023, and the wines are all back to being zero sulphur.
He's very happy with the wines: a lovely vintage with weight and length, and great freshness throughout.
The wines are detailed below now.
Yann has been heading up the domaine since 2018, taking an already groundbreaking Alsatian family who were dedicated to organic farming, a long-established no-till practice, agroforestry, and indigenous fermentations one step further into unfiltered, zero sulphur winemaking.
Yann is committed to expressing his varied terroir scattered over 30 small parcels around the village, and the new wines are a joyful snapshot of his and his family's hard work in the forested hills of Andlau.
AVAILABLE NOW
SPARKLING
2023 - Grizzling Négoce - Riesling
Macerated for 24 hours before a slow-pressing, fermentation in stainless steel. Bottled to continue as a pet-nat, disgorged as usual. No additions.
Remarkably clean and bright, high-acid and direct.
2023 - Gaz de Schiste - Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris
From parcels over schist, Pinot Blanc (50%) is macerated for three weeks, before blending with the direct-press Pinot Gris and direct-press Pinot Blanc (25/25%) Continue fermentation together before bottling to finish fermentation in bottle. Disgorged, no additions.
Pithy, zesty and mineral, summer heat bringing that Rubicon Mango energy.
WHITE
2023 - Ron-rond le Litron blanc Négoce - Pinot blanc, Riesling, Gewurz, Sylvaner
Yann has developed good relationships with his organic neighbour over the years, enabling him to fill out the range with the popular negocé cuvees. The edelzwicker blend is macerated for 24 hours, fermentation in stainless steel before assembling and bottling with no additions.
The Litres are so good this year, and the white is all you want it to be: elderflower lemonade with a pithy grapefruit finish.
2023 - Sylvaner - Sylvaner
From parcels of granite and a little clay, 24-hour maceration before a slow, gentle pressing to stainless steel.
The 2023 shows a more serious side to Yann's Sylvaner, with a savoury, herbal edge, good length and fine, peppery tannins.
2023 - Pinot Blanc - Pinot Blanc
A 50/50 blend of Pinot Blanc on Schist for acidity and structure, and Auxerrois on Gres for aromatics and fruit. A gentle pressing of both over six hours after a 24-hour maceration. Fermentation and ageing in stainless steel.
Yann's Pinot Blanc loves the sun: this year it shows with some nice reduction over aromatic orange blossom, salty and textured - very delicious.
2023 - Zegwur - Gewurztraminer
Yann has been picking from two parcels of Gewurz over Granite & Gres for this wine since heavy mildew damage in 2021 - he likes the balance so much that he's continued since. Roughly 25% was macerated for three weeks, the rest for 24 hours, fermentation and ageing in stainless steel.
Very pretty aromatics, delicate and soft. Showing soft tropical fruit, balanced by a good acidity and mineral length - feels like the wine is showing nice restraint this year - not always easy with Gewurztraminer.
SKINS
2023 - Krax - Riesling
Yann's Riesling on sandstone always yields something lovely and soft, which is why he chooses the Krax parcel for his maceration - it's the one he feels can be pushed. Three weeks of de-stemmed maceration, fermentation and ageing in stainless steel. No additions.
Bright with pithy citrus, soft tannins here, a wine that opens up really nicely over an evening if allowed the opportunity!
ROSE
2023 - Rosé Négoce - Pinot Gris
From parcels on sandstone, fruit was macerated for just two days and pressed slowly to stainless steel for fermentation. Bottled with no additions.
Tangy with fresh raspberry and fraise de bois, a little summer rhubarb compote in the mix, lovely balance and length, nice to see a 100% Pinot Gris Rose from Yann this year.
RED
2023 - Ron-rond le Litron rouge Négoce - Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris
From parcels on sandstone and little clay, fruit was destemmed and macerated (as separate varieties)very gently for three weeks - assembled and aged in stainless steel.
This is such a winner - natural red with life and bounce, turbid and textured - bags of fun!
2023 - Pinot Noir Rouge Gorge - Pinot Noir
Yann notes that whilst the domaine and negoce (Gorge) Pinots are picked at similar times, both mostly over sandstone, and made the same way, his neighbour's parcel is a site with less sun, and not as diligent yield control as Yann - so not as much concentration of fruit.
Hand harvested and destemmed, macerated gently for three weeks, aged in stainless steel and bottled with no additions.
Bags of crunchy cherry, light and nimble with fine-grained tannin, a wine that opens up beautifully given a little time.
2023 - Rouge de Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir
From parcels over sandstone and schist, hand harvested and destemmed, macerated gently for three weeks, aged in stainless steel and bottled with no additions.
The domaine Pinot is a lot deeper in comparison with the negoce, showing juicy fruit but good structure, real depth and a persistent, mineral length. Showing well now, but will certainly reward good patience in cellars too.
