A clutch of new arrivals have just arrived from Maxime Woerly in the picture-postcard Dambach-la-Ville.
Read moreOur Rhône Again (Naturally)
La Roche Buissiere
France, Southern Rhône, Vaison-la-Romaine
Located northeast of Vaison-La-Romaine in the southern Côtes du Rhône, Antoine Joly and his wife Laurence work 18 hectares of organic vineyards planted with Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault. They maintain a freshness and lightness in their wines by dedicating themselves to very intense vineyard work that allows to harvest earlier, resulting in less concentrated wines. They hand-harvest, don’t use synthetic yeasts, and don’t fine or filter.
Their new 2019 vintages just landed - as well as a refill of the 2018 Petit Jo! We've had a chat:
"After an awful year 2018 where we have lost big amounts to mildew, 2019 was better, but we did struggle with a long heat wave of four months without a single drop of rain. As a result of that we have harvested very early and very fast. We've had a total of 25 staff and have finished in 11 days.
"The 2019 Rosé is a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault from 15-20 year old vines grown on clay-limestone and silt. We've used whole grapes, which were pressed straight away and then went directly into tanks. The fermentation took place for 15 days. The idea was to create a light and easy drinking rosé.
"The 2019 Premices is made of 90% Grenache and 10% Cinsault. We have added Cinsault this time in order to bring more freshness. As usual, it was the first cuvée we have released this year, as it was the first one to be harvested. For this cuvée we usually do very short macerations, which helps achieve a light colour and fresh juice. The maceration took place four days in total. After 72 hours, we started to take the juice out of the tank, one hectolitre per day, while leaving the whole grapes inside to keep fermenting further. Like this we had constant fresh juice being created. We have been doing this for four days in total until all the juice was out.
The fermentation was also very short: 12 days - which we call 'rosé style'.
"Both of these cuvées are fresh and easy wines, perfect for summer and are best served cold.
"The 2018 Petit Jo is made from a blend of 50% Syrah - 50% Grenache on a clay-limestone terroir (with a very varied texture: marl, sand or silt) situated between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. It's a wine perfect for sharing with friends and family: easy-drinking with notes of red fruits and spices.
"All three cuvées are aged in tanks, are unfined and unfiltered, and had a total of 10 mg/l of sulfites added at bottling.
"So far this year is looking good for us, we haven't had any frost or mildew this year. We are hoping for a comeback of our Petite Jeanne cuvée, named after our daughter, which we weren't able to make for the last two years due to grape shortages."
Now in Stock
ROSÉ
NEW 2019 (VDF) Rosé - Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault
RED
NEW 2019 (Côtes du Rhône) Premices - Grenache, Cinsault
2018 (VDF) Petit Jo - Grenache, Syrah
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Sunshine, seafood.. sorted
Complemen'terre
France, Nantes, Muscadet
Both Marion and Manu were born in Muscadet and have been around vineyards their whole lives. After a long time away working for winemakers in New Zealand (Felton Road Winery) and Chile (Domaine Clos Ouvert), they settled in 2013 in the village of le Pallet and work now with three grape varieties: Melon de Bourgogne (eight hectares), Folle Blanche (0.68ha) at la Haye-Fouassière, and Gamay (0.60ha). The wines are all vinified by parcel with the aim of showing off the varied volcanic terroir of the region.
Marion and Manu work organically and in line with the lunar calendar, in total respect of the soils and the nature.
Their 2018 and 2019 whites have just landed - perfect with some sunshine and oysters!
We've had a quick chat:
"The 2019 68 Ares is 100% Folle Blanche, a really aromatic grape which matures late and a variety we've got very little of in the vineyard, exactly 68 ares (0.7ha) on orthogneiss. So being able to produce this cuvée is sort of revolutionary for us! We have replanted some of the vines recently as they were in a bad spot where they were really sensitive to frost. With this change we expect to be able to be a lot more productive in about three years time.
"Direct press, fermentation in tank. Racked once and unfiltered. It then finishes off in the bottle for about five to six months. The cuvée is perfect with seafood as it is citrusy with a hint of acidity, so gives a fresh punch to balance out the flavours.
"The 2019 La Croix Moriceau is 100% Melon de Bourgogne and is planted on deep soil of limon and sand and is also ripening rather slowly. This wine makes up a third of our whole production. As with all our other wines, this cuvée has been harvested by hand and directly pressed. Fermentation on lees for six to seven months. Unfiltered. Expect a fruity and round cuvée with a bit of gas, which will get rounder with time. Generally it is an easy-drinking wine with low acidity.
"As for the 2018 cuvées, it was a year when we've had a huge harvest. Crop of very good quality with barely any damage. The 2018 Le Breil is aged on lees for 17 months in stainless steel. The 2018 Nolem fermented in barrels for 10 months. Both are unfiltered.
"This year we are already looking at an earlier harvest, we will be starting around the 20th of August, so three weeks earlier than usual. Due to the warmer weather the crops are maturing more quickly. Flowering started end of March, which means harvest is 100 days later. Fingers crossed we will have good results!"
Now in Stock
WHITE
NEW 2019 (VDF) 68 Ares - Folle Blanche
NEW 2019 (AOC Muscadet) La Croix Moriceau - Melon B
2018 (AOC Muscadet ) Le Breil - Melon B
2018 (AOC Muscadet) Nolem - Melon B
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The Fresh Cognette-tion
Cognettes
France, Nantes, Muscadet, Clisson
Seventh-generation winemaker brothers, Stéphane and Vincent started working in their family vineyards in 1988, converted to organic in 2009, and produced their first certified vintage in 2013.
Their soil is volcanic in two terroirs; the first has a top soil of sand, gravel and clay with a subsoil soil of gabbro. The second; a topsoil quartz with a subsoil of granite.
Their new 2019 reds as well as refills of their 2018 whites have just landed - we've had a quick chat:
"In 2019 we have lost a big amount of grapes to frost, but we've still had great results for our reds. The grapes were of very good quality with loads of aroma and a good colour. The harvest has been easy as there weren't many rotten grapes.
"For the Le Pas Rouge 2019 we've had two types of macerations: one with destemmed grapes only and the other one whole bunch. The result is a Gamay with a great balance between aroma and acidity. It's a red wine which is really fresh and not heavy to drink. So we are hoping to have a similar result in 2020!
"For the Pinot Noir 2019 we were lucky as well when it comes to the quality of the grapes last year. The wine has been aged in tanks as these don't change the aroma of the wine, so we've got the real taste of the Pinot Noir shining through. This cuvee has an ABV of 14% which is exceptional for our wines which have usually a lower percentage. In France we call this sort of wine 'le vin des copains', which means a wine particularly good for sharing with friends.
"As for 2018, we have lost a good amount due to mildew. But what we were able to save was of good quality. Due to a hot summer which followed after a rainy spring, the 2018 whites are generally rich but still very fresh, with fermentations ranging between three to 13 months in order to achieve the right balance. The 2019 Chardonnay will be great but it is still fermenting. In general, natural wines have a longer fermentation than conventional wines. And the whites are fermenting even longer than reds.
"At the moment we've got a three-week advance in the vineyard due to the mild climate. We are very happy as so far the vines are looking very good, after the last couple of challenging years this will be a welcome change. But, the advance means no holidays for us this summer as we will now need to work quicker to catch up as well as have an earlier harvest than usual.
"Next year we will be trying out something new: we will do a Sauvignon Gris maceration. We're looking forward to seeing the results of that!"
Now in Stock
WHITE
2018 (IGP) Gros Plant - Folle Blanche
2018 (IGP) Chardonnay - Chardonnay
2018 (AOC Muscadet) Muscadet les 2 Terres - Melon de B.
RED
NEW 2019 (IGP) Le Pas Rouge - Gamay
NEW 2019 (IGP) Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir
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(Donkey) KILLER WINES
Mataburro
Rivesaltes, Pyrénées-Orientales, France
Laurent Roger and Melissa Ingrand’s project is named for the railway line that runs just behind their vines. The first in the Perpignan region, on its opening day in 1910 two unfortunate donkeys were killed by trains. Mataburro means “donkey killer”.
They are farming three hectares in Rivesaltes. To have maximum soil life they do not plough, using green manure planting instead. Vineyards are worked organically with the only treatments used sulphur, copper and some essential oils. Winemaking uses native yeast with no fining or filtration.
Their 2019 cuvees have just landed - we've had a quick chat:
"For the 2019 cuvee of Otium we have used Grenache Noir, planted by my grandfather in 1949, as well as small amounts of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Macabeo and Carignan. All were harvested at the same time. The idea was to have more diversity in the wine. Whole bunch infusion, without extracting too much tannins from the skins. A total of 7 days maceration. Aged in tank. The end result is delicate and floral, with just a little bit of tannins.
"The 2019 Idoine cuvee comes from the Merlot parcel right next to Otium, planted by my father 30 years ago. Last year it was a mix between Merlot and Grenache, but this year it's 100% Merlot. Pigeage, then 7 day maceration, aged in tank. I liked the Merlot juice which had cherry and grenadine flavours and I have decided to create a cuvee out of it.
"In general, our cuvees are very experimental. What I'm driven towards are fresh and light wines, which I like to evolve regularly. There are no set guidelines or winemaking techniques we follow. These don't matter to us, what matters is the end result. It is more led by what we feel like every year. We go out into the vineyards and we taste the grapes together. Every year the climate is different, the grapes are different. Everything is determined by feeling and intuition.
"Next year we might be bringing out our first white cuvee, so stay tuned!"
Now in Stock
RED
2019 Otium - Grenache, Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Macabeo and Carignan
2019 Idoine - Merlot
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From Anjou with Love
Thomas Boutin
France, Loire, Anjou, Rochefort-sur-Loire, Angers
Now finally back in stock: 2018 Charabia, Celsiane and La Quillette. We've had a quick chat with Thomas:
"2018 has been difficult but with a good result. We've had loads of rain in June which caused mildew. It stopped in July and the heat allowed us to fight the mildew, which then resulted in a good harvest both quality and quantity wise."
"As for the 2018 cuvees, there were a couple of changes. For example for Charabia, which is normally 100% Chardonnay, I have added 15% of Chenin, to make the wine more round. For La Quillette I have upped the Grolleau percentage from 5% to 20%, to add more peppery and spicy notes. In general what happened was that my yield has generally doubled, it went from 13 hl/ha in 2017 to 30 hl/ha in 2018."
"Each wine has a name for a reason: La Quillette means 'la petite bouteille' - 'the small bottle'. This stands for a wine which is very easy to drink and quick to finish, it is overall a light and fruity wine.”
”La Charabia stands for a person who doesn't make sense when they talk: 'tu fait du Charabia' - 'you are talking nonsense'. As this is again a very easy drinking wine, so 'Charabia' is basically what happens as the end result.
Celsiane is a name of a rare tulip which grows near Coteaux du Layon, and I have chosen this name as a homage to my parents and grandparents who were all working in agriculture, same as me before I started making wines. This particular tulip is also often planted in between the vines of biologically farmed vineyards is order to help cultivate them."
"This year so far we were lucky and we haven't had any frost or mildew. It is looking rather hot already, so I'm planning to harvest around the 23rd/ 24th of August. Which means about 2 weeks earlier than last year. Let's see where this takes us!"
Now in Stock
WHITE
2018 Charabia - Chardonnay (85%), Chenin (15%)
Manual harvest. Direct pressing. Vinification with natural yeasts. Aged in vats, on the lees for 10 months. Unfiltered, racked before bottling.
2018 Celsiane - Chenin
Manual harvest. Direct pressing. Vinification with natural yeasts. Aged in vats, on the lees for 11 months. Unfiltered, racked before bottling.
RED
2018 La Quillette - Gamay (60%), Cab Franc (20%) & Grolleau (20%)
Manual harvest. Direct pressing. Vinification with natural yeasts. Whole bunch maceration for 8 days in vats. Separate maceration and vinification for all grape varieties. Aged in vats, on the lees for 9 months. Unfiltered, racked before bottling.
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Crac is Back!
CHÂTEAU BAROUILLET
France, Bergerac & Monbazillac in Pomport
Vincent is an eighth-generation winemaker; joining his father in 2010, when he started the organic "project" at Barouillet - bottling their own wines rather than selling the grapes for bulk-blending. Organic conversion started with 6 hectares and since 2013 the entire estate has been organic.
The long awaited Bergecrac Blanc & Rouge 2019 have finally landed!
We've had a chat with Vincent:
"We have bottled both of the Bergecrac Blanc & Rouge about 2 months ago. Bergecrac Blanc is a blend, as usual, made up of locally grown grape varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Chenin, Semillon. All of them add something different: Sauvignon Blanc is aromatic, Sauvignon Gris adds the texture, Chenin adds the freshness that makes you want the second glass and Semillon is just great juice! What I was trying to achieve with this wine is having something quite round and opulent, and I think that with this vintage we've now found the right balance."
"Bergecrac Rouge is also a blend and is made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Merille. There is something new we've added to this vintage: Merille - which is a really local and sort of lost grape variety from Bergerac. It is light and aromatic and there is about 5% of it within this blend.
To make this wine we've had a really small extraction and a short maceration, of about 5-6 days max. It was aged in a tank. In general, the Bergecrac range is made for easy drinking!"
NOW IN STOCK
WHITE
NEW 2019 Bergecrac Blanc - Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon, Chenin
RED
NEW 2019 Bergecrac Rouge - Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Merille
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Gamay Galore: Remi Sedes
Rémi Sédès
France, Nantes, Coteaux d’Ancenis
Hailing from the Jura, Rémi studied agronomy when he arrived in the area to live with his Nantes-born wife. He worked for a couple of years with Vincent Caillé, and then spent time honing his red winemaking skills in Bordeaux before setting up on his own in 2013. Rémi started with a plot of 20-year-old isolated vines that he leases from local biodynamic ‘grandfather’ Jacques Caroge. In 2017 he added a small parcel of Melon and Chardonnay.
Part of winemaking for Rémi is a lifestyle choice; he wants to work outdoors, in the fresh air, and not with machines – his Shire horses are an important part of his winemaking process.
Rémi is a Gamay specialist, and this was a key factor in choosing to work in Ancenis – where half of production in the area is red. In the cellar Rémi works with minimal use of sulphur (only sometimes added on bottling).
Our chat with Rémi (May 4, 2020):
How has the pandemic affected you so far: Which challenges have you been facing? What became easier?
It's true that this year everything is different with the current situation, but for me personally, not much has changed. Actually, I like the way things are now. There is a lot less speed and stress, people have slowed down. I can concentrate better on my work in the vineyard and I feel calmer overall.
I find that working in agriculture I'm often under pressure placed on me by the outside world for various reasons, and now that most people were forced to stop what they are doing and stay at home, a big weight was lifted. I'm working by myself so it is not always easy to do it all at the same time.
Did the recent weeks also have an economical impact on you?
To be honest, it hasn't been too bad. About 30% - 40% of my wines go to Japan, which continued as usual. The UK seems to be doing well, as well as certain retailers in France. The current amount of orders suits me as I'd also like to keep some wines here on the side to let them age a bit further. Money wise, it is enough for me to live off so I'm happy. It is not enough to hire an additional person to help me out, but that is something for the future. Overall, I'm stable.
And climate wise, how has this year been so far for you and what are you predicting for this year's harvest?
We've had a very rainy winter. which is unusual here but it is great for the soil to build up water reserves for the hotter months to come. During the previous years the winters were quite dry, which led to the soil to dry up fast and made work very difficult.
We didn't have any frost, so that is also great. Now we just need to wait and see how the summer months will go, but overall I have the feeling it will be a great year with some really good results.
Are there any particular projects you are working on at the moment?
Yes, I am pursuing the goal of expanding my work with horses. Trocade, my Shire horse, will hopefully have a baby. She is getting old so it would be great to have a successor. I have more friends who work with horses, like Johan Chasse. We will be working together and joining forces on the field and help each other out.
Now in Stock
Rosé
Claire est Ni Rouge Ni Rose 2015 - Gamay
"In 2015 I've had one of my largest harvests to date. For this rosé, I wanted to try a method which I have experimented with previously in Bordeaux: 'Clairer' - which means to leave the juice to macerate for two days before pressing. The result is a light bodied, fresh and aromatic rose with bright acidity."
Samplemousse 2018 - Gamay
Hand harvested, Cold maceration for four hours, fermentation in cellar in fibreglass for two to three weeks. On lees until bottling.
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New in: Domaine Durrmann
Domaine Durrmann
Andlau, Alsace, France
The Durrmans believe that the quality of wine is created by work in the vineyard, that’s why their objective is its preservation. The wines are disturbed as little as possible. They do not add any oenological product to change the natural taste of the wines.
We've had a quick chat with Yann:
What can you tell us about the new 2019 cuvées we have received?
The Pinot Blanc has a rather expressive nose with creamy apple perfume, fresh smooth taste with long finish and a hint of vanilla. Made half from Pinot blanc from schist soil, hence the freshness and length, and half from Pinot Auxerrois (a cousin from the Pinot Blanc), hence the fruity character.
The Rosé Pinot Noir has a delicate nose of redcurrant, progressively going into raspberry. It is very crispy and fruity. It was made from Pinot Noir which was harvested early to achieve the crispy style, and one day of maceration to have the lovely colour.
The Zegwur is very fruity with perfume of exotic fruits: kiwi and litchi. Fresh mouth with passion fruits notes and a pleasant bitterness.
None of the cuvées have added sulfur and were farmed organically.
Which wines do you enjoy drinking besides your own?
I like the Riesling variety in particular: it's crisp and refreshing, perfect for warm and sunny days.
Talking about the current situation we are facing - how did the lockdown affect you?
There are good and bad sides to it. On one hand the business slowed down as far as private customers and orders. Also every supply chain is on hold: it is hard getting labels printed, order empty bottles so we can fill them up...Anything which has to do with outside help.
But then I have also had a lot more time to dedicate myself to the vineyard, which I have really enjoyed as well. This year we are a month ahead climate wise, as it started to get warmer earlier. So I had to be quick in finishing the pruning process, which I was able to do thanks to the confinement. If this trend continues, we are expecting an early harvest towards the end of August.
How is your area affected?
In this area of France we were the first ones to be affected, so people are taking it very serious and are respecting the confinement. Everyone knows someone who has been to hospital. So I hope we will also be the first ones to get out on the other end.
Fingers crossed!
Now in Stock
White
NEW 2019 (AOC Alsace) Pinot Blanc Nature - Pinot Blanc
An abundance of fun! A spritzy and hazy cuvee filled with grapefruit and citrus aromas and with a textural and less-y pallet. Long pressing (6 hours) in a pneumatic press. Spontaneous fermentation in aged wooden barrels. No filtration before bottling.
NEW 2019 (AOC Alsace) Zegwur - Gewurztraminer
After taking over his parents' vineyard, Yann wanted to experiment with the Gewurztraminer production. His family would traditionally produce a rather sweet wine and he wanted to change things up a bit. He decided to harvest earlier than usual and use a long press, which gave the wine a very aromatic flavour. Aged in stainless steel without filtration.
Rosé
NEW 2019 (AOC Alsace) Pinot Noir Rosé Nature - Pinot Noir
A beautiful hazy pink coloured rose made with Pinot Noir from 2 different terroirs. Fruity with a touch of spice. Summer sophistication. Maceration of whole grapes for 24 hours before pressing, then fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Ageing on lees until bottling.
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From the Heart of Burgundy: Domaine Dandelion
Morgane & Christian
Beaune, Burgundy, France
Morgane and Christian farm a couple of hectares of old-vine Aligote, Pinot Noir and Gamay on various small parcels around the village of Meloisey - just over the hill from St Romain.
The harvest in Hautes Côtes de Beaune is nearly a month later than the rest of Burgundy. There is no mechanisation in the vineyards, only horses are used or – when the vineyards are too steep – worked by hand. They choose to spray raw milk on the vines instead of sulfur and no pumping or filtration is used. Grapes are pressed in an old, wood-beam, vertical-screw press, and aged in neutral oak under their house.
They produce just two wines - but what wines they are. Pure, bright and full of personality and the growers' vision. A real find considering how difficult it can be for small scale vignerons to exist in this part of France with the price of land being so high.
We were very lucky to get our hands on a limited amount of bottles of the Pinot Noir 2018 vintage:
Now in Stock
Red
2018 (Hautes-Côtes-de Beaune) Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir
Whole bunch. No pigéage. 20 days of skin maceration in concrete tanks followed by 3 rounds of 'pigéage à pied' to release more sugar from the grapes before heading to the basket press (to avoid a surge of sugar during pressing). Aged in old barrels under their house. No added sulfur.
"2018 has overall been a good year. Not so much disease and no need to light any fires to prevent frost. There was a lot of rain in March, we thought it would be disastrous but in the end it wasn’t. The main problem ended up being drought during the summer months. We have harvested on the 15th of September, which was a quick and spontaneous decision: I was on my way back from Chandon (winery where Christian works) and drove past one of the vineyards. I stopped, tasted the grapes and realised it was time to go.
"In general, 2018 wasn't a typical year for Burgundy, the wines ended up with a much higher alcohol content than normal. What saved us were the colder nights, which helped to keep the balance and good acidity. All fermentations went well. The old tank struggled a bit at the end, so we added the lees from the other tank to help. As a result, the wine is rich, balanced and round. Less green than the more immediate 2017 vintage. The alcohol will integrate with time.
"Also, in 2018 we've had a lower yield than in 2017 for two reasons: 1) drought, the old vines suffered and 2) it was the second year of ploughing, therefore surface roots were cut (not intentionally), and the vines were not used to it. You could see the low vigour during pruning. This year during pruning we've noticed the vines look a lot stronger. It is satisfying to see the change with cover crops and ploughing, it took two years to get to this result."
- Morgane
As the stocks are really limited, please let us know
ASAP if you would like some.
Once it's gone, it's gone!
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La Boire - Nantes
What is La Boire?
The 3rd edition of La Boire took place on Saturday 7 and Sunday 8 December 2019 in Nantes. A natural wine fair, organized by Pinards and Jus d'Ancenis with 18 winemakers from all over France.
This is where we’ve spent our Sunday: tasting promising new cuvées and meeting some familiar faces…
Complémen'terre
Le Pallet, Loire-Atlantique, France
Both Marion and Manu were born in Muscadet and have been around vineyards their whole lives. After a long time away working for winemakers in New Zealand (Felton Road Winery) and Chile (Domaine Clos Ouvert), they settled in 2013 in the village of le Pallet and work now with three grape varieties: Melon de Bourgogne (8 ha), Folle Blanche (0,68 ha) at la Haye-Fouassière, and Gamay (0,60 ha). The wines are all vinified by parcel with the aim of showing off the varied volcanic terroir of the region.
What’s new: 2018 Potion Mama | Pet Nat
Manu: “ ‘Potion Mama’ was originally meant to be called ‘Potion Magique’, but this name is already in use within the beverage industry. So ‘Mama’ comes from our names: MAnu and MArion. In addition it also refers to Mother Earth.”
Folle Blanche (20%) and Melon de Bourgogne (80%) grown on othogneiss and silt. Aged for 14 months.
2018 has been a hot vintage and the end result is a dry and aromatic pet nat.
Rémi Sédès
Coteaux d’Ancenis, Nantes, France
Hailing from the Jura, Rémi studied agronomy when he arrived in the area to live with his Nantes-born wife. He worked for a couple of years with Vincent Caillé, and then spent time honing his red winemaking skills in Bordeaux before setting up on his own in 2013.
What’s new: 2018 Samplemousse | Rosé
Hand harvested Gamay, cold macerated for 4 hours and then fermented in cellar in fibreglass for 2 - 3 weeks. On lees until bottling.
Why ‘Samplemousse’? In France you’ve got a drink called Pamplemousse Rosé which has a slightly sweet, easygoing grapefruit taste that is more approachable for entry level wine drinkers.
Remi always found that the wine from his granite parcel reminded him of grapefruit, so ‘Samplemousse’ is his own, naturally farmed version, of the French Pamplemousse Rosé.
Les Terres Bleues
France, Loire-Atlantique, La Chapelle-Glain
Xavière Hardy is a tough, determined woman who makes amazing juice while leaving as little mark on the land as possible. Enlisting the help of Ancenis grower Jacque Caroger, she lobbied the local council, who eventually relented and gave her permission to plant her vineyard. After analysing the terroir she chose Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Grolleau.
What’s new: 2018 Blanc Noir | Red
100% Black Grolleau, grown on blueschist. Direct press then fermented for 8 days in vats with and matured in barrels for 8 months. No added sulfur. The "Blanc de Noir" cuvée has produced a dry white wine, with a beautiful freshness and vivacity.
Xaviere: “I tried by chance the "Blanc de Noir", with a Munster and I really liked it because this wine came to "counterbalance" and "refresh" the Munster cheese which has a strong personality. Overall, it's typically the little white one to enjoy in the late morning, with oysters on the go!”
A Chat with La Roche Buissiere
La Roche Buissiere
Vaison-la-Romaine, Southern Rhône, France
After deciding that studying city water waste management wasn’t for him, Antoine took over from his dad Pierre in 1998. Shortly joined by his wife Laurence, they began vinifying and bottling their own wine.
Organic since the 1970’s Pierre had used to sell his grapes to the local co-op.
Vineyards are planted with Grenache and Syrah. Very intense vineyard work allows for early harvest, resulting in less-concentrated and lower-alcohol wines.
They hand-harvest, don’t use synthetic yeasts, and don’t fine or filter.
How did the 2019 harvest treat you?
Compared to last year, this year has been great. In 2018 we've had lots of rain in spring and lost half of the harvest. This year went well, even though we didn't see a drop of rain for 4 months and had record temperatures of 43 degrees. We have started early (September 23-26) and we did it very fast, because of the heat. All grapes were harvested by hand, as usual.
What is special about the Côtes du Rhône region?
We are in the south of the Côtes du Rhône, in an area called the 'Region les Barronies'. The higher altitude (300-350m) means we get more freshness up here when summers get hot. Because of this, compared to other wines of the southern Côtes du Rhône area, ours end up being more fresh and crisp.
Also, in this region we have a big presence of polyculture. Loads of fruit and olive trees which is great for the soil.
What effect does the clay and limestone soil have on your wines?
These are rich soils which offer a lot of freshness. Two years ago we have started using natural compost as a fertiliser to avoid any sort of intervention. We plant wildflowers in between the vines and once they grow we cut the leaves which form the compost. We then let nature do its work.
Why are you using concrete tanks?
For us, it's a material which makes temperature regulation easy. It stays the same be it summer or winter as it withholds external temperature changes. We use them both for winemaking and also for storage.
What are the biggest changes you've seen in winemaking since you got started?
Clearly, the natural wine movement which is now more stronger than ever. Our domaine has been organically converted since 1976 by Antoine's father, but we have then gone further and started working naturally not only in the vineyard but also in the cave.
All the work we do in the vineyard is to allow the vines to have a natural equilibrium. This is then clearly reflected in the quality of the grapes.
The idea is to be as close as possible to the earth and take what it has to give without any intervention.
Do you think now there are more makers who are converting to bio?
Yes definitely. Near us there are plenty of winemakers who are converting. But then also not everyone is ready to make the change.
I have also more customers who come to the shop and want to find wines with as little sulfur as possible, because they can tell the negative effect sulfur has on their bodies, such as headaches and stomach ache. Or, they are allergic to sulfur. And I find that this sort of customer base is growing. That's good because mentalities are changing and people are asking themselves more often now about what exactly it is they are eating and drinking.
It's essential for us to work with people like you because you can relay our philosophy back to your customers and contribute to the change.
Which wine fairs will we be able to see you at in the coming few months?
Definitely La Dive Bouteille on the 2 & 3 of February 2020 in Angers. That is THE wine fair for us. Just before that will also be at Les Affranchis in Montpellier on the 26 & 27 of January 2020. That's it for us when it comes to big wine fairs.
What I have started doing more of are trips to see clients around France, or smaller events organised by different people we work with.
What can you tell us about your future plans?
We would like to plant more vines in 2020, especially the ones which offer freshness like Cinsault or Mourvèdre.
Wines now in stock
Red
2017 (VDF) Petit Jo – Grenache, Syrah
Hand harvested, 100% de-stemmed. Short maceration to retain freshness. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. No added sulfur.
2017 (Côtes du Rhône) Premices - Grenache, Syrah
Hand harvested, 100% de-stemmed. 8 day fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Pumping over and racking after fermentation. No filtration or added sulfur.
2015 (Côtes du Rhône) Le Claux - Grenache, Syrah
Hand harvested, 100% de-stemmed. 20 day fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Pumping over and racking after fermentation. No added sulfur.
2017 (Côtes du Rhône) Flonflons - Grenache, Syrah
Hand harvested, 100% de-stemmed. 12-day fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. No added sulfur.
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat with Vignereuse
Vignereuse
France, Gaillac, Andillac
Marine Leys works with a mix of local varieties: Mauzac, Loin de l’Oeil, Braucol, Duras and then some Gamay (fashionable in the 1970’s for Primeur wines), and Syrah (the most commercial of the varieties, and Gaillac used to sell a lot of bulk must and juice to other regions).
The vineyards are situated on the south-east-facing slopes of the Cordais plateau. The soil is schist on limestone – less argilo-calcareous than the rest of Gaillac. All wines are fermented and aged in fibreglass. No sulphur is used on the reds.
How did this year's harvest go for you?
It was a very good one. We were lucky to have had rain at the right time. The maturity progress was never interrupted and the alcohol levels aren't too high either. I would say we've had the perfect result.
That's great! A lot of other winemakers we spoke with have suffered from the big heatwave this summer
I know, we are really lucky here in Gaillac. We have enough water but not too much. Haven't had any frost this year either. Last month we've already had 100mm of rain, which is already building a reserve in water supply for next year.
What is special about Gaillac?
Gaillac is one of the oldest vineyards in France, established in Roman times or even earlier, with great soil and terroir. Roman merchants transported wine to Bordeaux and Northern Europe down the Tarn.
Gaillac is quite isolated. It's close to Toulouse, but Toulouse never wanted to drink wines from Gaillac.
Gaillac has always been underestimated. It's not as famous as Burgundy or Loire regions. And I find that as a result of that Gaillac's winemakers underestimate themselves today, even though there is a big potential here for great wines. Today there are around 20 winemakers in Gaillac doing natural wines.
And how did you find you way to Gaillac?
I learned winemaking in Turkey when I followed a friend of mine who was establishing himself as a farmer there. His daughter wanted to get into winemaking so he planted a whole vineyard with vines imported from Italy next to his farm just for her. I then decided to help them and fell in love with the vineyard in Turkey.
When I came back to France it was mainly for my own education, as it was rather complicated to do in Turkey. I wanted to work with someone who knew how to make natural wines. In the vineyard in Turkey I was working organically, so I knew that this was the direction I wanted to head in. But they have never let me experiment with making my own wines, so when back in France I didn't want to start without learning about it first; how to work with natural yeasts for example. So I have gotten in touch with the Plageoles family and they said yes. I've spent two years at their domaine in total and have then found a vineyard of my own in 2014 not too far away. I have always worked organically but am organic certified since 2018.
What about your family? Do you have any winemaking background?
No, not at all. We have a chef but no winemakers!
Do you work alone?
I get people to help with the harvest and I've been employing a worker called Sebastien for two years, mainly for pruning. We have also done a cuvée which he is in sole charge of. But besides that I do everything myself. I'm really excited to have done this year's primeur under the new appelation 'Vin Nature' which is now on a testrun in France for the next three years! This will be really big.
How do the other winemakers in Gaillac influence you?
We've got a great community of winemakers, called Terres de Gaillac. There are about 20 of us and we see each other pretty often. Once a year we take a road trip together to visit other winemakers and get inspired. Last year we've done Beaujolais, this year it will be the Rhône. We exchange a lot of tips and see how we can improve things - and just help each other out generally.
Which wines do you enjoy drinking?
Le Clos de Grillons from the Rhône, we are going to visit him so I'm really excited.
Which wine fairs will we be able to find you at in the coming few months?
I'll be at Roots 66 on the 27 & 28 of January 2019 in Montpellier and at La Dive Bouteille on the 2 & 3 of February in Angers. That's all I have planned at the moment.
What can you tell us about your future plans?
I'd love to work with animals, but I'm not sure how soon I'll be able to do this. And also this year for the first time I'll be making a 'Vin de Voile', which has to be kept in a barrel for 7 years. So I'm pretty excited to see how that will turn out.
Wines now in stock
Red
2018 (VDF) Gaia Quoi! – Syrah
A saignee of around two days. Is this Gaillac's answer to Lambrusco? Hand-harvested and unfiltered Syrah pet-nat.
2017 (AOC Gaillac) Croizade - Syrah, Duras
Hand-harvested Syrah (40-year-old vines) and Duras (10-year-old vines) blend. Unfiltered and unfined.
2016 (AOC Gaillac) A la Santé des Mécréants - Duras
Hand-harvested Duras from 40 year old vines. Eight-day maceration with regular pumping over. Aged in fibreglass tanks.
2016 (AOC Gaillac) L'Ancêtre - Braucol
Hand-harvested Braucol from 15-year-old vines.
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat with Ferme de Sept Lunes
Jean Delobre
France, St Joseph, Bogy
Le Ferme des Sept Lunes is a 10-hectare farm perched on one of the highest areas of St Joseph. Visiting involves a tortuous 350m road-climb from the valley floor. The hair-pins are not for the faint-hearted.
The latest of three generations on the same farm, Jean converted to organic and biodynamic agriculture in 1997 and only uses sulphur in his wines when it's absolutely unavoidable. The vineyards in the upper part of St.Joseph have a south-eastern exposure, the altitude bringing freshness to the wines. The climate has been tending to Mediterranean in recent year, with wind coming from the north.
Each cuvée is site-specific; with Syrah, Roussane, Marsanne, Viognier and a bit of Gamay planted mostly on granite soils.
The wines all show great freshness and purity, the whites all have texture and tension, the reds with depth, aromatics and a fantastic juiciness.
Tell us about the new wines we have just received: 2015 Lunatik Ladyland and the 2018 Syrah Gamay
Lunatik Ladyland used to be AOC St Joseph but then it was declassified to Vin de France as it was too oxidised. You used to have the 2012 version. 2015 compared to 2012 is richer and less oxidised.
We chose to declassify the wine as we thought that when people order a classic St Joseph they will expect something entirely different. So it was better to change the name and appelation so we don't mislead our customers.It's a Roussanne Marsanne blend harvest at good maturity and aged one year in barrels then in stainless steel for another year. We then left it on the side for the wine to stabilise further.
The 2018 Syrah Gamay cuvée is an exception as usually it's only a Syrah. But that year the summer was hot so the Syrah was quite concentrated and lacking it's usual freshness. So I have then added 25% of juicy Gamay to make it more balanced. 7 days maceration, kept in fibreglass tanks.
How did the 2019 harvest go for you?
It was a hot year but in the end we had a good harvest which should give us great wines. We were very careful about choosing the harvest date, so the maturity doesn't go too far. But it was a hot year and the vines suffered.
Would you say that there was a noticeable change when it comes to temperature in the recent years?
Yes, the last three summers were very hot. Before that we've had years with fast maturity in 2003 and 2005, but it's true that the recent years are noticeably hotter.
What are your personal favourite vintages you have made to date and why?
The first one I have ever made: 2001. Beginner's luck! Then, I also like 2009 and I believe that 2017 has great potential.
Which wine fairs will we be able to see you at in the coming few months?
This weekend (23 & 24 Nov) I will be at Salon des Doubouchées in Lyon, which is a local wine fair. On the 26 & 27 of January I'll be at Les Affranchis in Montpellier and 1 & 2 of February at Salon Degustation Grenier St Jean in Angers. Next April I'll also be at Vini Circus, which sees a big mix of public as well as trade visitors.
What can you tell us about your future plans?
We would like to plant some trees and bushes in and around the vineyard. This is to protect the vines from the strong winds we are having in this area, as well as offer some shade during hot summers which are becoming more frequent now.
Wines now in stock
White
NEW 2015 (VDF) Lunatik Ladyland – Roussanne Marsanne
Red
NEW 2018 (VDF) Syrah Gamay – Syrah, Gamay
2015 (AOC Saint Joseph) Premier Quartier – Syrah
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat with Fergus Clague
Fergus Clague
France, Languedoc, Junas
Born and bred in South London, Fergus and his wife Vicky ran Hand Made Food in Blackheath for 21 years. In 2014, blown by a wind of change, Fergus and family arrived in the south of France.
The wine story started when Fergus met Thierry Forestier, Laurent Bagnol, Yves & Vincent Moulin and Olivier Pichon at Quilles de Joie, a natural wine festival in Souvignargues (Gard), France. None of them were represented in London so he took a suitcase full of their wines and did tastings all over London with several importers. And it all went from there...
In 2015 they lived on a domain outside of Montpellier as negociants and in return for that they got to make a small amount of their first vintage, ‘Press in the Vines’, a soft and easy drinking Cinsault.
In 2017 they produced 900 bottles of 'Gout Elles', a blend of Grenache and Carignan. The name means 'grappions' - the little bunches on the top of the vines which people usually leave behind during harvest. At that point in time they still didn’t have their our own vines, so Thierry Forestier kindly let them pick the grapes he had left from his vineyard.
Then in 2018, they had the very first harvest on their very own parcel two miles away from their cave. They produced ‘Echappez’ and we now have it - right here - right now...
Tell us about the 2018 Echappez we have just received
I now rent a parcel of Grenache, it is 0.3ha on limestone on a lovely slope. The vines are about 80 years old. Last year was our first harvest and it was fantastic, we've had a really lovely crop. We had two tons of lovely grapes and produced a total of 1200 bottles.
What is the meaning behind the name?
Echappez is the imperative of 'escape'. It basically means 'get out of here'. For us it was partly about escaping from London.
How are you enjoying your life in France?
It's cool, we like it. We've got two teenage boys and they are both pretty happy.
How did the 2019 harvest go so far?
This year in July we've had over 46 degrees for a couple of days. I am a complete beginner when it comes to winemaking and had treated the grapes a couple of days before. They got burned really badly, I was devastated. But there were loads of people in the same boat as me. The heat was terrible and as a result the sugar concentration was quite high, so the issue was the yeast converting all of it.
In total we've harvested one ton, with a really high sugar concentration. So what we did was we went and we picked some Grenache that was lower in sugar at the domaine Mas de la Font Ronde nearby. So this year we've got two cuvees: one which is made from our own super ripe Grenache, and the other one of the less ripe Grenache from the other vineyard. They are both interesting and hopefully by next spring I can put them together, that's the idea.
Which wines do you enjoy drinking besides your own?
'Aramonix' from Thierry Forestier is pretty much 'THE reference' for me.
So, is Thierry a really good friend of yours?
Yes, it wouldn't have been possible without him. He has helped us a great deal and whenever I have a problem, Thierry is the first person I ring. He has been very generous. I do try and make up for it with my cooking skills. For example, this year we will be doing the cooking at theQuilles de Joiefestival for the 4th year in a row. That is just such a lovely event and as we don't get paid for it, that is my opportunity to make up for all the favours that everyone has done for me. Normally there are a couple of chefs who come out from the UK, too. It's a great opportunity for them to understand how to drink all day but then still put in a good evening's work!
What can you tell us about your future plans?
We've got a couple of nice two-year-old barrels coming from Bourgogne. This year we are going to do some barrel aging, partly because there is still some sugar left in the Grenache we've harvested this year. That really needs to be left in a barrel over the winter in order for it to finish.
Now in stock
Red
NEW 2018 Echappez - Grenache
"10 days of maceration carbonique, manually pressed in basket press - that’s why it has a really bright colour as it was lightly extracted. Aged in inox. We bottled it in May this year. It is a wine which has a potential to develop over time."
We can't wait to see where Ferg's journey takes him!
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat with Xaviere Hardy
Les Terres Bleues
France, Loire-Atlantique, La Chapelle-Glain
Xavière Hardy is a tough, determined woman who makes amazing juice while leaving as little mark on the land as possible.
She hasn’t taken an easy path. There were no vines for miles around her village - La Chapelle-Glain, about 60km north of Nantes. In fact, planting vines there was officially forbidden. That wasn't about to stop Xavière, who refused to be deterred from her dream of a career change after 20 years running her own business
Enlisting the help of Ancenis grower Jacque Caroger, she lobbied the local council, who eventually relented and gave her permission to plant her vineyard. After analysing the terroir she chose Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Grolleau.
Les Terres Bleues is the name – reflecting the blue schist that predominates on her 1.5-hectare plot. Her plants (around 8,000 per hectare) are trained in the Albarello style, common on Mount Etna.
With help from family and friends, each vine was individually staked with a whacking great lump of wood. This type of training gives all-day exposure to the sun, very helpful in this northerly location.
Connection to the plant is paramount:
"The vines are grown organically. I work as naturally as possible, I take care of my vines according to the lunar calendar with nettle, comfrey, horsetail, oak bark, willows and many other plants. I also apply biodynamic preparations since the establishment of the vineyard in 2013 [DEMETER certification was requested and obtained in 2019]. The objective is to allow the vine to strengthen its own resistance to disease but also to improve exchanges between soil micro-organisms and its root system. I attach great importance to the vine itself but also to the ecosystem in which it is part."
How did 2018 treat you?
”2018 was an excellent year. The harvest brought great quality grapes thanks to the beautiful sunshine we've had. As every year, the harvest was manual, all the wines were vinified without any oenological inputs and without sulphur.”
What do you expect from this year's harvest [2019]?
”A good harvest quality due to the weather. Unfortunately, the spring frost and the summer drought we've had this year will have an impact on the volumes harvested, particularly for Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. For the Grolleau the impact is less, the harvest should be beautiful and qualitative.”
What is your favorite vintage so far and why?
”I have been producing wine only since 2015, since I planted the vineyard from scratch in 2013. I really enjoyed 2015 (my first little vintages of Pinot noir and Pinot gris) and 2018 which was a great year (2016 = frost; 2017 = frost). For 2019, I start harvesting tomorrow, September 17.”
Which wines do you like to drink in addition to yours?
”The sulphur-free Gamay by Jacques and Agnès Carroget (La Paonnerie in Anetz) and the Muscadet by Stéphane Orieux (Vallet).”
What can you tell us about your plans for the future?
”Invest in a wind tower to fight frost (the order was placed for installation in spring 2020). In 2019 I also planted an additional half hectare of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir in order to have more wine on these two varieties because I have a very small estate[1.5 ha including this young plantation].”
Now in stock
White
NEW 2018 AWA - Pinot Gris
"Direct pressing (pneumatic press), alcoholic fermentation in vats with indigenous yeasts (8-10 days) then matured in barrels for eight months. Sulphur-free."
Red
NEW 2018 Vin du Pastre - Grolleau
"From a young vine planted in 2014, which froze in 2016 and 2017 - the harvest was therefore abundant in 2018. Totally destemmed by hand with wicker destemmers that I had made by a basket maker. Vatting for 10 days (fermentation with indigenous yeasts) then maturing in barrels for 8 months. Sulphur-free."
NEW 2018 XH2 - Pinot Noir
"Maceration in vats (fermentation with indigenous yeasts - 10 days). Pressed then matured in barrels for eight months. Sulphur-free."
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat with Jean-Pierre Rietsch
Vins d'Alsace Rietsch
France, Alsace, Mittelbergheim
The Rietsch estate has been in the family for seven generations and the land was previously used for tobacco and crops. It was Jean-Pierre’s parents who started cultivating vines in the 1970s, handing on to Jean-Pierre in 1987.
Although Jean-Pierre is now retired, he still contributes to the daily running, assisted by Pierre-Etienne Grieshaber. While another contributing company – Le Main Verte – coordinates the manual work in the vineyards, the domaine is still very much driven by a family-led culture. The vineyard is naturally cultivated, with terroir at the heart of the operation and no use of chemicals.
We've had a chat with Jean-Pierre on the 2018 Rouge and Blanc au Litre cuvées:
2018 brought us an amazing harvest. We've had a big abundance on grapes, which were really healthy and of great quality. The Rouge au Litre turned out very well and a bit more concentrated than usual. We did have our challenges in the cellar while making this wine due to volatile acidity during fermentation. I had to add 30mg/l of sulphur to help stabilise the wine.
As for the Blanc au Litre, on the contrary to the Rouge, the high yield brought less concentration as well as less acidity. It is a great wine to drink, and I can personally attest to that!
This year we will start the harvest in early September. So far it has been a complicated year as we have lost half of our grapes due to mildew as well as the heatwave this June/July. At the moment there are still a few areas affected by oidium (powdery mildew), so we need to select the unaffected grapes for harvest. In order to balance out the harvest results I will be blending some of the 2018 and 2019 vintages.
White*
NEW 2018 Blanc au Litre - Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewurztraminer
Red*
NEW 2018 Rouge au Litre - Pinot Noir
Sparkling
2015 Extra Brut - Non Dose - Auxerrois, Chardonnay
* Due to high demand we are already nearly out of stock! But don't worry, we will be getting another shipment soon. Register your interest here
New Producer Aboard: Terres de ROA
Terres de ROA
France, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, Monetay-sur-Allier
Loren Tisserand was introduced to us by Vincent Alexis (Château Barouillet) at the Biotop wine fair in Montpellier last January. We were quite intrigued as we were neither familiar with wines from the Saint-Pourçain region before, nor the Tressalier grape variety. We obviously liked the wines and now here we are!
The vineyard of Terres de ROA extends over 18.5 hectares spread over the communes of Monétay sur Allier (sandy soils) and Breuilly Cesset (granitic soils). It is run by Lauren and her parents Claudine and Luc Tisserand.
They work with four grape varieties: Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir, which are common in this region of the Loire Valley - and the Tressallier grape variety, which is grown only in Saint-Pourçain.
The vineyard is farmed organically in respect of the soils and the nature. Tillage or controlled grassing alternates between rows of vines in order to enrich microbiological life, promote biodiversity and aerate the soil. A fertilizing vegetable compost is also put in place. It is the only Domaine in the Saint-Pourçain AOC Appellation in Organic Agriculture certified by Ecocert in 2009.
Their philosophy: just let nature take its place.
We've had a chat with Loren Tisserand:
What have you been up to before you have joined your parents' business?
My parents created the domaine in 2006 and I joined in 2015.
Before that I lived in Paris and worked at Fauchon, a luxury grocery store. I then studied in Beaune, Burgundy, where I met my husband who has just started a new job there. I then decided to join my parents' business.
What are your responsibilities?
I work in the vineyard, cellar as well as the shop.
What do you like most/least about your job?
I like everything except the fact that I don't have enough time. It should get easier next year when we will downsize from 18 to 11 hectares, as our lease will expire.
What does the name ROA stand for?
Raisins (Grapes) – Organics – Attitude
Tell us about your 2018 harvest: What were your challenges? What went particularly well?
The year was way too hot and dry. Like for many other winemakers, during the vinification the fermentation was complicated due to a lack of energy in the juice. But, in the end, I can say we've had a great result both quality and quantity-wise.
Who creates the wine labels and what is their meaning?
My mother usually designs the labels but I have created the ones for Dans l'Absolu and Dans ma Sph'R. Both mean translated something like being in your own sphere, being whole. The label is a nod to my own childhood as I was often in a world of my own as a little girl.
Are there any new winemaking techniques or tools you'd like to experiment with?
I started to work with plants and I want to progress with this. I especially like working with nettles.
Which wines do you enjoy drinking besides your own?
I enjoy Malbec wines from Cahors, South West of France.
Now in stock
White
NEW 2018 Tresse a Lier - Tressallier
Manual harvest. 20 to 40-year-old vines. Indigenous yeasts. Vines vinified and matured independently in vats for five months and blended one month before bottling. Bottled with a small addition of sulfur.
NEW 2018 Dans l'Absolu (Cuvée A) - Tressallier (60%) – Chardonnay (40%)
Manual harvest. 15 to 50-year-old vines. Vinified and matured independently in vats for eight months and blended two months before bottling. Bottled with a small addition of sulfur.
Red
NEW 2018 Dans ma Sph'R (Cuvée R) - Gamay (80%) - Pinot Noir (20%)
Manual harvest. 20 to 40-year-old vines. Indigenous yeasts. Vines vinified and matured independently in vats for five months and blended a month before bottling. Bottled with a small addition of sulfur.
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat With Thomas Boutin
Thomas Boutin
France, Loire, Anjou, Rochefort-sur-Loire, Angers
Thomas Boutin started his own winemaking project in 2008, with only 1.8 hectares. In 2011, he inherited a compact winery and vines from his mentor, and has progressively built up the number of hectares. He farms two hectares in Rochefort-sur-Loire and one hectare in Saint Aubin. He is evolving as a winemaker, and experiments whilst learning and finding his style.
Having studied oenology and worked in larger wineries, he is passionate to keep the approach small-scale with minimal intervention. All wines are made without any use of chemicals, are unfined and unfiltered with little use of sulfur.
Tell us about your 2018 harvest: What were your challenges? What went particularly well?
2018 has been difficult but with a good result. We've had loads of rain in June which caused mildew. It stopped in July and the heat allowed us to fight the mildew, which then resulted in a good harvest both quality and quantity wise.
What do you anticipate for the 2019 harvest?
I always wait until September to have a better idea of the end result. August is a really important month when it comes to maturity of the wines. For the moment what I can see is that the buds are developing well from the outside, but I cannot tell yet how good the quality is.
What is your personal favourite vintage you have made to date and why?
I have two: 2012 and 2016 when it comes to quality, even though the yield was very small. I haven't made loads of money but the wines turned out amazing.
Which wines do you enjoy drinking besides your own?
Normally I enjoy drinking full-bodied wines but at the moment I drink light reds. There is no particular region that I prefer, I am more about discovering new wines, especially from outside of France.
Are there any winemakers whose influence has been particularly important?
Benoît Landron has helped me out immensely. We enjoy sharing our wines and I will always be helpful to him as he has helped me to establish myself as a winemaker.
Also, there are other winemakers who have taught me a lot and who are less into natural wines but are still organic certified. For example Benjamin Delobel. There are always more things to learn as there are always new challenges coming up.
What can you tell us about your future plans?
I want to reduce the use of copper in the vineyard. Also, I want to create a new cuvée. At first I thought about using barrels but now I feel like I am at a point where I'm more connected with the earth and I want to try making a cuvée using amphora.
Further down the road I'd like to plant Pinot d'Aunis and Grolleau Gris and have some fun experimenting making new cuvées.
Now in stock
White
NEW 2017 Celsiane - Chenin
"100% chenin, from five different plots. Two plots consist of 60-70 year old vines, planted after the second world war in mass selection. The other three are between 20-30 years old in clonal selection: one with coarse grains and normal maturity, the second one with very early coarse grains, I sometimes pick it up a week ahead of the other vines, and the last with small grains and a normal maturity. The fermentation took place over one year. This wine has a fresh mouth, very ripe fruit, almost dry fruit with hints of honey. Warm notes of plum which remind of Alsatian wines and give the wine a bit of pep."
2016 Charabia - Chardonnay
"Small yield due to frost (loss of 5 - 10%) mildew (loss of 35 - 40%)and heat. The harvest went well in the end with good maturity of the grapes. It is a well-balanced wine with notes of exotic fruit and a lot of freshness. An easy drinking Chardonnay."
Red
NEW 2017 La Quilette - Gamay (60%), Cabernet Franc (35%) & Grolleau (5%)
"Small yield due to frost, but as the rest of the year has been pretty balanced we didn't get the feared mildew. Maceration and fermentations occured separately for each grape variety. I macerated for 7-8 days with whole bunches before pressing. The tanks were assembled the following spring when fermentations were complete. Harvest started already on August 23. This was the earliest I have ever had to start as the grapes were maturing very fast due to warm weather. Compared to previous vintages, the 2017 vintage has less acidity, more structure and more notes of compote red fruits, but it's still a light wine."
Sweet
2011 Topaze - Chenin
Thomas' first harvest. Hand-harvested from three vineyard selections. Direct-press with indigenous yeasts used, three years in barrel. No filtration, racked twice to remove lees before bottling.
For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com
A Chat with Rémi Sédès
Rémi Sédès and our very own Basile Gueret
Rémi Sédès
Coteaux d’Ancenis, Nantes, France
Hailing from the Jura, Rémi studied agronomy when he arrived in the area to live with his Nantes-born wife. He worked for a couple of years with Vincent Caillé, and then spent time honing his red winemaking skills in Bordeaux before setting up on his own in 2013.
Part of winemaking for Rémi is a lifestyle choice; he wants to work outdoors, in the fresh air, and not with machines – his Shire horses are an important part of his winemaking process.
Rémi is a Gamay specialist, and this was a key factor in choosing to work in Ancenis – where half of production in the area is red. The soil is micro granite - which suits Gamay particularly well - with a mix of clay, sand and limon underneath.
Tell us about your 2018 harvest: What were your challenges? What went particularly well?
In June/July last year I had to put up a big fight against mildew due to loads of rain. It's better if your sprayer doesn't break, or you'll lose the fight big time! This is what I was worried about the entire time.
The harvest ended up really good as all the efforts paid off and the mildew didn't affect the buds. There was also very little harvest in 2017, so as a result the grapes in 2018 were even better.
What do you anticipate for the 2019 harvest?
This year we've had big frost in early April. Usually you get two hours of cold air mass but we've had six to seven hours. The buds look beautiful for now, so fingers crossed.
What are you drinking at the moment?
My own rosé, which is still in the tank, as I didn't have money to bottle it yet! Other than that I love a white wine from Sicily called Porta del Vento.
What can you tell us about your future plans?
Tocade my horse is expecting a foal. Also, I want to restructure two new hectares which I've acquired. They are empty at the moment I want to plant fruit trees to bring more biodiversity.
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