March of the Penguins: JP Rietsch Arrivals

 

JP RIETSCH
FRANCE, ALSACE, MITTELBERGHEIM

Penguins for Christmas! Jean-Pierre Rietsch's iconic Cremant d'Alsace has landed, alongside a brace of new cuvées: macerations, litres, Grand Crus – all present and correct.

2023 has proven to be quite the bumper harvest in Mittelbergheim. Not one without its problems (high mildew pressure thanks to humidity and big clusters after heavy August rains) but a tremendous year for quality of fruit. The resulting wines are clean, properly invigorating and characterful.

New arrivals are detailed in full below.

Jean-Pierre has been at the helm of his family vineyards in the historic village for over 37 years now. Diligently organic, but working above and beyond in the parcels to ensure the resulting wines channel their terroir with both complexity and drinkability in equal measure. The 2023 wines show particular balance and juiciness, still retaining great depth. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do!

AVAILABLE NOW

NEW 2022/23 - Cremant Extra Brut - Non Dose - Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris

NEW 2019/20 - Cremant Extra Brut - Non Dose (Magnum) - Auxerrois, Chardonnay

From parcels on the clay-limestone terroir of Mittelbergheim. Whole-bunch pressed to tanks, for fermentation. After 12 months of ageing, the wine is bottled at the beginning of the next vintage, along with fresh-pressed juice from the new harvest as a spark for the secondary fermentation in bottle. Zero dosage, disgorged to order, no additions.

2023 - Blanc au Litre - Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Silvaner

The litre blend continues to be very well suited to the format, Auxerrois taking the lead, picked from mixed parcels over clay-limestone.

2023 - Vieille Vigne Sylvaner - Sylvaner

From parcels in the Brandluft and Berg vineyards, alongside some from the Zotzenberg, mostly on clay-limestone, with some marl in Zotzenberg.

2020/23 - Stein - Riesling

From vines besides the house that JP planted with his father 30 years ago, the Leu dit Stein grown on Grey Marl and Limestone. This is a true terroir Riesling expression, multi-dimensional, long and mineral.

2022 - Grand Cru Zotzenberg - Riesling

Zotzenberg is a south/south-east facing Grand Cru vineyard, planted over marl, limestone and compacted sandstone. 2022 was one of the hottest years on record, and whilst the wine still boasts Jean-Pierre's signature acidity and light touch, it is bolstered with a brilliant sun-kissed ripeness. Lovely salinity coming from the terroir, aged 12 months in foudre.

2022 - Demoiselle - Gewurztraminer

From parcels of Gewurtztraminer over grés and clay-limestone, whole bunches with an 11-day maceration, blended with 1/3 of direct-press juice.

2023 - Murmure - Muscat

Muscat can always be a fragile grape for Jean-Pierre but it has fared well in 23, picked from the marl limestones around Mitterlbergheim. A 10-day whole-bunch maceration this year, proving very fine and delicate rather than overbearing, Rietsch long-since having understood the best way to work with his aromatic varieties.

NEW 2023 - Quand le Chat - Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris from clay-limestone of Mittelbergheim and grés of Mutzig. 9-day infusion of whole-bunches under juice, aged 8 months in foudre.

2023 - Coquette - Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir

Coquette returns! A successful experiment in teasing different elements from the Gewurz, aiming for drinkability and intrigue rather than its predictable big aromas. A blend of three separate tanks, picked mostly from the Zotzenberg, great balance!

NEW 2023 - Rouge au Litre - Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris

From Pinot Gris (1/3) parcels at the bottom of the clay-limestone Mittelbergheim hillsides, and young Pinot Noir (2/3) vines from the sandstone-limestone Stierkopf parcel in Mutzig. An infusion maceration of whole bunches in juice for 12 days. Aged in tank on fine lees for 8 months. No added sulphur.

 

New Rare Releases from Ham Street

 

Lucie & Jules at Ham Street have been building up quite the stash of delights in their cellar – wines from their first vintages, produced in the tiniest quantities. We count ourselves very lucky to be able to share some of these with you now.

Alongside the new limited releases, we've also received a nice top-up of their brilliant 2023 Pet Nat.

For those unfamiliar, Ham Street is the project of husband & wife team Lucie & Jules, who planted four hectares of vines in 2019 on the edge of the Romney Marshes.

Certified biodynamic and following regenerative agricultural practices, the pair have a keen understanding that improving soil health and not upsetting the natural balance is the key to healthy fruit, and happy wines. Their first zero-sulphur releases were made in collaboration with Nic & Dan at Offbeat, Wiltshire.

AVAILABLE NOW

SPARKLING

NEW 2021 - Blanc de Blancs - Chardonnay

From their first harvest, aged in barrel 10 months before 20 months on the lees - a thrilling traditional method sparkling, bright, energetic and incredibly elegant. Only 216 bottles.

WHITE

NEW 2022 - Chardonnay - Chardonnay

The latest in their series of single barrel releases - from the bountiful '22 vintage. Fermentation and ageing for 20 months in Burgundy barrel before bottling in summer, 2024. Intensely mineral, long and complex - a beautiful wine. Only 144 bottles.

RED

NEW 2022 - Field Blend Reserve - Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Bacchus, Pinot Gris

The joyful result of holding back two barrels of their 22 Field Blend for 20 months of extended ageing. A wine that already had layers of complexity, has deepened with extra time in barrel, filling out its corners and gaining a long, soft finish.

FOR WHOLESALE ENQUIRIES: HELLO@WINESUTB.COM

 

November 15: An ISCA Takeover

 

On Friday, November 15 we are thrilled to be in Manchester, taking over the bar at our beloved Isca Wines for the night.

In anticipation of the wine fair at WTLGI (on Sunday November 17) Al & Fernando will be hitting the north from 6pm on Friday evening, pouring for all and on hand to chat through the wines - picking out the perfect fare for Issy's Autumnal cooking.

Walk-ins are welcome, but bookings are encouraged - available now via Isca's site

 

Shake Yr PomPons: Arrivals from Mas De La Font Ronde

 

This week we're pleased to welcome back more of our favourite wines from the Gard.

Courtesy of both the the Moulin brothers at Mas De La Font Ronde, and Laurent Bagnol of Mas Lau, these new arrivals represent some of the most characterful, soulful low/zero sulphur wines available for their price.

All too often, wines at this price are made by larger producers, working at huge volumes, sometimes with machines in the vineyard and compromises in the cellar.

It's a privilege to be able to support true Paysan Vignerons like these, custodians of their land and tradition.

Yves & Vincent converted their farm, Mas De La Font Ronde to organics nearly 20 years ago. Farmers first - growing wheat, potatoes and chickpeas, they have 25 hectares under vine.

Tucked in the garrigues on clay-limestone, their international varieties are sold to the local co-op, whilst Vincent concentrates his efforts in the cellar working with the traditional local varieties. The Moulin family have been farming in the village of Villevieille for over 300 years. Quintessential vigneron paysan!

Working gently and simply, they produce great value, charming wines that are always a treat to have back on the list.

Available Now

2022 - Pom Pon Rouge - Mas de La Font Ronde - Villevieille - Aramon, Alicante, Cinsault, Carignan

A short whole-bunch maceration, pressed to tank after three days, bottled in spring with a microdose of SO2.

2023 - Pom Pon Blanc - Mas de La Font Ronde - Villevieille - Carignan Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc

Pompon Blanc 2023 is a two-day maceration, pressed to tank; fermentation finished after 3 weeks, the wine was bottled in spring with no additions.

 

Bottles of Character from Laurent Bagnol

 

In the village of Souvignargues 50km from the sea at the foothills of the Cévennes, alongside his olive trees, Laurent Bagnol organically farms eleven hectares of centenarian goblet vines, with a soft spot for the area's indigenous varieties. Across his surface are plantings of Carignan, Oeillade, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah.

Soils are incredibly rich and varied in their geological complexity: beneath the clays are the notable compacted sandstone/limestone 'gres' soils and shimmering limestone, rich in molluscs and marl.

The wines are hugely charming, a rustic, romantic expression of a unique terroir. To us, they're among the most direct examples of what we love about the Gard. Raised in simple vats of steel and enamel, vinified gently with very little extraction, Laurent likes to keep out of the way in the cellar and let fruit express itself.

Wild, characterful zero-sulphur wines from a true custodian of the land!

AVAILABLE NOW

2021 - La Cabane du Malet - Mas Lau - Souvignargues - Carignan, Syrah

Hand harvested from 80-year-old goblet-trained Carignan (60%) and Grenache vines, both on sandstone, shimmering limestone and marl. Macerated for one week as whole bunches with no pump overs or extraction. Aged 1 year in enamelled steel vats, bottled with zero additions.

2021 - Clin d'Oeil - Mas Lau - Souvignargues - Oeillade

Hand harvested from goblet trained Oeillade vines, grown on sandstone, shimmering limestone and marl. Macerated for 5 days as whole bunches with no pumpover or extraction. Aged 7 months in enamelled steel vats, bottled with zero additions.

 

New from Vent Des Jours: Cahors

 

Ideal wines for the shortening days and dropping temperatures, we are very pleased to have received a tranche of Malbec & Merlot from Lolo & Nathalie Marre, expressions of their limestone hill in Cahors. Among our favourite examples of the region, the wines are so welcome at this time of year.

Lolo & Nathalie farm six hectares in the village of Villesèque as Le Vent Des Jours. At 380m above sea level, they're the highest point in the appellation. Planted with Malbec and Merlot, along with a handful of white varieties, Lolo returned to the region after years working as a sommelier and caviste, visiting 27 different plots before finding the place they could call home.

Work in the vineyard follows biodynamics. Where not done by hand, the only assistance comes from Nathalie's draft horses, helping to aerate the stoney clay/limestone soils after harvest, and spreading a mulch of natural fertilisers.

The wines are made beside the winery, and it's here that Lolo exhibits a real lightness of touch. Macerating the reds slowly, often in the 'mille-feuille' layered style for gentle extraction. Ageing is in a variety of concrete, barrels and amphorae.

Their work translates to pristine wines that succeed in being generous and inviting, whilst keeping a line of tension and direct limestone-acidity that make them such a joy to drink.

Available now, we have a handful of new releases from recent vintages, and a welcome return of some favourites.

AVAILABLE NOW

WHITE

2023 - C’Juste - Gros Manseng, Ugni Blanc

Pressed directly to fibreglass, fermentation on gros lees for 25 days before settling and devatting to amphora for 11 months ageing on fine lees. Bottled August 2024 with no additions.
Textural and long, with golden apple and a little tropical hum, opens up nicely in the glass.

RED

2023 - Un Jour ou L'Autre - Malbec

Whole bunch maceration for 4 days, free-run and press juice blended together for ageing in concrete tanks for 9 months, bottled with no additions.
Bags of dark fruit, autumnal hedgerow, last-of-the-season berries.

2021 - Le Zef - Merlot

Whole bunch maceration for 5 days free-run and press juice blended together for ageing in concrete tank and foudre before assemblage and bottling after 9 months, with no additions.
Lightly smokey, with herbal lift, gentle, integrated tannins, elegant and supple.

2021 - Les Calades - Malbec

This wine is made up of parecels from three terroirs, harvested and vinified separately before blending: Jurassic Limestone, Kimmeridgian Limestone and clay. De-stemmed, and macerated for three weeks with direct press juice, aged 9 months, half in concrete tank, half in amphorae. No additions.
Long, dark fruited, a mineral through-line holding everything together, deep but fresh.

2019 - Les Moutons - Malbec

A single half-hectare parcel of old vines grown over Kimmeridgian Limestone and clay, macerated 'mille feuille' style, equal layers of whole-bunch and de-stemmed grapes until the tank is filled. Fermentation in concrete, pressed and assembled in barrels for nearly two years. Bottled with no additions.
Dark fresh fruit, a thrilling integrated VA, great length.

 

Introducing KAUFMAUS

 

We are so pleased to release a very special wine. Introducing: Kaufmaus!

A collaborative blend assembled with Andi Weigand and our friends Bertie (Ducksoup), Lindsey (Jolene), Raj (Bubala), and Alex (Elliots) - featuring a label illustration by Marc Springhetti (inspired by a mutual love of German supermarkets and vineyard-grown rocket.)

We were lucky enough to visit Andi in June for what we hope continues a tradition of working on an annual blend together. After touring the vineyards and enjoying dinner in the courtyard, we descended early the next morning into Andi's cellar, packed with his beloved Stückfass barrels.

Using the weighty old-vine Muller-Thurgau as a base, the remaining 60% comprises equal parts Scheurebe, Silvaner & Pinot Blanc to bring acidity, aromatics and texture. The resulting wine is elegant and mineral, with saline white peach that opens up into brighter aromatics, lovely length and a nice bit of structure.

Kaufmaus is immediate in the glass, but opens up beautifully. Available now in both bottle and 20L Keykeg!

Photos below from our visit to Iphofen with Bertie, Lindsey, Raj, and Alex!

Loading into the KaufmausMobil

Andi in the vines

Andi & Alex (Elliots) on the road that winds up the Iphofer-Berg hill where Andi’s vines are scattered.

Cross-section of Keuper - a must visit landmark on the Weigand Iphofen Tour

Andi, probably extolling the virtues of shoot-thinning, beside his vines.

Dinner in the courtyard - shout out to Andi’s mum’s iconic potato salad.

Touring the cellar, tasting through barrels to assemble this year’s blend.

How to build a Kaufmaus.

Bertie & Lindsey ready for the journey home, mission accomplished.

The finished bottle - featuring the illustration work of Marc Springhetti - Kaufmaus is inspired by a mutual love of Germany supermarkets, to be paired with vineyard-grown rocket. Drink cold, if you can find some good potato salad too, all the better.

 

October Trade Tastings

 

We're excited to announce a pair of trade tastings for Autumn - a collaboration between ourselves and Beattie & Roberts, Otros Vinos , Roland Wines, Wright's Wines - and joining for one date only - Wayward Imports & Vine Trail.

On October 7th we head West to pour at the wonderful Marmo in Bristol and then on October 21st we hit the North to pour at the beautiful Where The Light Gets Im - on both occasions from 11am until 4pm.

If you work in the trade and would like to taste at either the Bristol or Stockport tastings, simply drop us a DM to RSVP and we'll get you booked in.

See you there!

 

A Library Release from Hugo!

 

In a real turn-up for the books, Domaine Hugo have released a special wine from their library reserve: the dazzling 2019 vintage of the traditional method sparkling! 

A slightly cooler year than the 2018 and 2020 vintages that bookended this release, the 19 boasts a thrilling acidity and profound length: a wine that has evolved beautifully with its extended ageing. 

From an easeful vintage, nice rain, no disease, good yields - it’s apparent that this is a wine that true to its origins, much more so than much autolysis-leaning Champagne. One feels the chalk here, 2019 in particular is so direct and on-target.

As always: fruit biodynamically farmed, hand harvested. The entire field blend was basket-pressed, spontaneous fermentation and ageing in Burgundy barrels for 11 months before tirage. Aged 18 months on the lees until disgorgement in February 2022 - now a further 30 months ageing in bottle. Zero dosage.

Pics of a very cheerful Paris Barghchi and Hugo last week, just waiting for a bit more sun for ripening vintage '24!

FOR WHOLESALE ENQUIRIES: HELLO@WINESUTB.COM

 

September 30: An Autumn Trade Tasting

 

An Autumn Trade Tasting!

Join us and our pals Otros Vinos for a tasting at Little Duck, Dalston on Monday September 30th

We'll be pouring from 10am - 4pm, featuring new arrivals from Philippe Delmee, Larural and Project 108 - cosy wines for cosy times and some much-needed doses of bottled sunshine for the upcoming shift as autumn sinks it's teeth into summer.

Drop us an email to RSVP

FOR WHOLESALE ENQUIRIES: HELLO@WINESUTB.COM


Poster source image E.D Williams, 1935 Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington

 

New from Rémi Sédès

 

Rémi Sédès
FRANCE, LOIRE, ANCENIS

We are so pleased to have a handful of new arrivals from Rémi Sédès in Ancenis, Loire. Slow-macerated, foudre-aged Gamay, dazzling, mineral white, and one of our all-time favourite roses make a welcome return.

A Gamay specialist, Rémi farms 2.5 hectares of 25-year-old isolated vines that he leases from local biodynamic grandfather Jacques Caroge.

Hailing from the Jura, he studied agronomy when he arrived in the area to live closer to his wife's family in Nantes. He earned his white stripes with Vincent Caillé, followed by a brief stint in Bordeaux to grapple with reds, before setting up to take things at his own pace in 2013.

Remi wanted to focus his efforts on Gamay, and the best soils were a key factor in his choosing to work vines in Ancenis, north-east of Nantes. The soil is micro granite - which suits Gamay particularly well - with a mix of clay, sand and limon underneath. Gamay is vigorous, and the acidity in these soils help to reduce yields, and offers particularly aromatic expressions when worked delicately.

Like the Shire horses he uses in the vineyards, Remi prefers to take things slowly. For him, his work as a winemaker is as much a lifestyle choice as a profession. He relishes his time outside and avoids working with machines. As he puts it; he might as well get a job in a factory listening to machinery if he were to sit driving a tractor around the vineyard all day.

The new wines are detailed in full below!

AVAILABLE NOW

WHITE

2020 - Michto - Melon B.

Melon planted over micro-granite, hand-harvested, pressed slowly and gently in a cold room, settled in tank for 3 days in the cold room, racked to fibreglass for fermentation and ageing, bottled unfined and unfiltered with no additions in spring.

ROSE

2023 - Samplemousse - Gamay

Hand harvested, pressed slowly and gently in a cold room, settled in tank for 3 days in the cold room to retain primary fermentation aromatics, racked to a single Alsatian foudre for 6 months, bottled with no additions.

RED

2019 - Trait Gamay - Gamay

Hand harvested. De-stemmed and lightly crushed. A two week maceration, basket pressed to fibreglass, racked back to fibreglass just before the end of fermentation.

2021 - Trait Gamay - Gamay

2021 marks Remi's new process for Trait: everything is destemmed, for a one month infusion style maceration in an Alsatian foudre, with no extraction. Free-run juice and press juice are assembled together before bottling straight away, ageing in bottle. No additions.