A Chat with 2Naturkinder

 
 
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2Naturkinder

Germany, Franconia, Kitzingen

Micheal Voelker and Melanie Drese spent many years working in other fields, traveling the world and living in Heidelberg, Regensburg, London, and New York. In 2013 they returned to Bavarian Germany to begin taking over Michael’s father’s winery in Kitzingen. They began to make natural wines under the 2Naturkinder label as a side project for the winery, and in 2019 have fully expanded the project to take over the winery’s production. 


We've had a chat with Melanie:


How did the transition away from conventional winemaking go for you, since Michael's parents retired?
The winery which used to employ more than 40 people in the 1960s has shrunk to Michael and me. After six to seven years since we started this is a new beginning for us, a new structure. We have gone through loads of unexpected events which have really tested us such as broken machinery and staff drop-outs. We are still working through the transition but I think we will be able to find our balance in the coming few months. 
One of the biggest challenges will be the upkeep of the big estate, with a smaller wine production. 


How was last year's harvest for you?
Quite difficult. It was a very hot year. In addition to that, as 2018 hasn't been great, we could also feel the effect of that in 2019. Loads of dried up grapes, and we've particularly had huge losses of 60% of the Bacchus variety. Something that has never happened before! But, we are hopeful for this year. So far we've had loads of rain, which is great as it builds up water reserves in the soil.


So would you say these are the effects of climate change?
Absolutely. That's one of the reasons we have said that if we plant new vineyards, we will predominantly plant traditional grape varieties which can withstand the heat more.
We are actually about to take over two additional vineyards this year which will be newly planted. The first one this spring. As part of that, we will also be planting loads of trees in collaboration with the
Landesbund für Vogelschutz , the same organisation we work with to preserve the life of bats in our vineyards. This is in order to counteract against climate change and it will also be really helpful for vines to cope with the heat.


What else is happening for you in 2020?
We will be bottling up a new 2018 Pinot Gris/Riesling blend called Veinschwärmer, which is inspired by an endangered bat species which has been reported roaming the vineyard. Both vineyards are right next to each other, but the Riesling has been planted a bit later so it is the younger one out of those two. For us, the variety didn’t work very well by itself and after experimenting with it for two to three years, we've had the idea to mix both varieties and Veinschwärmer is the end result!

Also, there is an idea of holding workshops on our estate, which isn't official yet. The workshops would be around natural wine, food, foraging – exploring different topics in general. As we are getting contacted often by people from all over the world who want to come see us and we've also got plenty of space on the estate, we would like to use it in creative ways. Getting like-minded people together sounded like a nice plan! More info to be released soon!

In general we are trying to travel less as there is just so much to do here, but this isn't really possible. Next we will be going to Lissabon as well as New York as the US is offering huge opportunities for the natural wine market.

As Michael said, in 2020 we don’t want to grow our business in terms of revenue or popularity. It’s about being content, implementing a better working structure, achieving a balance and accepting that things take time.

Now in Stock



Sparkling

2018 Bacchus Pet Nat - Bacchus
Crushed and pressed in a pneumatic press. "Noticing the benefit of blending fresh juice with a good splash of wine from the previous year we mixed Bacchus juice from the first harvest day with the same amount of a finished wine from 2017. And that’s why there is no vintage on the label this time. 2018 was the best Bacchus year we’ve ever had so 100% beautiful grapes were crushed and fermented on the skins for four days before being pressed and blended with a wine from 2017 (a blend of Bacchus and a bit of Silvaner). Bottling took place another three days after end of August. Warmly disgorged by hand in March 2019."


White

2018 V&S - Muller Thurgau
Malolactic fermentation and aged in fiberglass. "A super early vintage for almost everything including this Müller-Thurgau harvested in August 2018. Destemmed and pressed the juice fermented in a fiberglass plastic tank and was racked just two days before bottling."


Orange 

2018 Drei Freunde - Bacchus, Muller-Thurgau, Silvaner

"The top three planted varieties in Franken are Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau and Silvaner. Kind of logical playing with a blend. The previous vintages have been reflecting the growing conditions of each season and so does this one. 2018 was the best Bacchus year we’ve ever seen so there was a lot and it was perfectly healthy.
The three wines going into the blend were fermented and aged separately but similarly: semi-carbonic maceration for a week (whole bunches included only for the Bacchus), pressed and fermented & aged in steel (Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau) and one big old oak barrel (Bacchus)."

WHOLESALE ONLY

FOR PRICE LIST ENQUIRIES, EMAIL hello@winesutb.com

 

It's Happening! Bedrock Wine Fair May 3-4 2020

 
 
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After 3 years of talking about it, we’re finally doing it. As Wines Under the Bonnet and Otros Vinos we are taking our collaborative tastings to another level: we have joined forces with some of the best small wine importers in this country to pull some of the most interesting artisan wine and cider producers from all over the world to congregate in an 11,0000 square foot unit at the Copeland Park warehouse in Peckham.



What is Bedrock Wine Fair?


It’s an opportunity to meet winemakers from around the globe and taste the fermented fruits of their labours. It will be the UK’s largest independent gathering of its kind this year. We want to provide a relaxed, collaborative platform for small importers and the growers they work with, making it accessible to both the burgeoning community of wine lovers and the professionals who feed their passion.

The line-up is already varied and widespread; working with small specialist importers gives the fair both diversity and a regional focus. Expect a strong presence from Germany, Slovakia, the Loire, and Catalunya with lots more to come. 

We are inspired by the relaxed continental culture of natural wine: Find a space, bring some wine, hand out glasses and go. The idea is that the wine speaks for itself.

Dates: 3 - 4 May 2020

Time: 10am - 5pm

Place: Unit 8 Copeland Park, 133 Copeland Road, Peckham, London, SE15 3SN

Tickets (trade & public): https://www.bedrockwinefair.co.uk/tickets

Growers: https://www.bedrockwinefair.co.uk/growers

 

Who is behind it?

We are Fernando and Alex. We met about three years ago, having both started importing wine at around the same time for the same reasons with the same philosophy, though we each focus on wines from different countries. It didn’t take long to launch our first collaborative tasting. We strongly believe in working together, what we are doing is still on the fringes and we are small businesses. Joining forces to make a bit more noise made a lot of sense. Over the last three years we have hosted at least 20 joint tastings across the country. Now we’re upping the ante – hosting a wine fair to bring together as many like-minded people as we can find.

Under the bonnet - Fernando on Alex

Since I first met Alex in 2016, he has been an inspiration to me and a role model in wine. He is driven by a fierce desire to get honest wine into the hands of everyday people like you and me without any of the pretentiousness of the classic wine world. There are no white shirts and chinos in his wine world nor hipsters wearing trucker caps, just hard working winemakers making awesome wines.

Otros Vinos - Alex on Fernando

Fernando has an unrivalled passion for Spanish wine. In the last few years he has opened my eyes to the evolving world on the Iberian peninsula. Otros Vinos are not a box-ticking wine importer. Six producers from Penedes, of course. Fernando rolls up his sleeves and gets stuck in working alongside his growers to truly understand what they do.

What is happening when?


Saturday evening
A communal feast, bringing together all the winemakers and importers involved in the fair, with a few tickets available to the general public.

Sunday morning
The fair will open its doors to the public at 10am. Bleary-eyed winemakers and tasters will have their caffeine fix expertly taken care of by Browns of Brockley. Through the day sustenance will be provided by some of South East London’s finest; Begging Bowl, Mons, Klose & Soan (more tbc ASAP).
Once you arrive, grab a glass and get stuck in. Approach any table with your glass arm outstretched and chase the wine.

Sunday evening
Until about 10pm we will be running a bar with wines available from the growers at the fair. The food stalls will stay open and we have asked some growers to spin some tunes.

Monday morning
The tasting will start again (same as Sunday), wrap party at Levan after.


Please follow us on @bedrockfair for regular updates!

 

 

Glou Glou in France

One of the great things about running a small independent business is bringing you, our customers, fresh flavours to excite and intrigue your tastebuds. What follows is an attempt to describe a "road trip with wine" as "hard work"…

Read more

Next Portfolio Tasting: Feb 24 2020

 
 
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Our first collaborative tasting of 2020 will take place at Duck Soup, 41 Dean St, Soho, London W1D 4PY.  We'll be joined by our usual co-conspirators from Otros Vinos, Wright's Wines and Beattie & Roberts.

What to expect: fresh new season energy with new releases due to arrive in the coming weeks.

Thank you to Rory, Pete, Bertie, Benedict, Clare, Tom and the rest of the Duck Soup crew for hosting us!

See you there!

WHOLESALE /TRADE ONLY

 

From the Heart of Burgundy: Domaine Dandelion

 
 
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Morgane & Christian

Beaune, Burgundy, France

 

Morgane and Christian farm a couple of hectares of old-vine Aligote, Pinot Noir and Gamay on various small parcels around the village of Meloisey - just over the hill from St Romain.

The harvest in Hautes Côtes de Beaune is nearly a month later than the rest of Burgundy. There is no mechanisation in the vineyards, only horses are used or – when the vineyards are too steep – worked by hand. They choose to spray raw milk on the vines instead of sulfur and no pumping or filtration is used. Grapes are pressed in an old, wood-beam, vertical-screw press, and aged in neutral oak under their house.

They produce just two wines - but what wines they are. Pure, bright and full of personality and the growers' vision. A real find considering how difficult it can be for small scale vignerons to exist in this part of France with the price of land being so high.

We were very lucky to get our hands on a limited amount of bottles of the Pinot Noir 2018 vintage:

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Now in Stock



Red

2018 (Hautes-Côtes-de Beaune) Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir
Whole bunch. No pigéage. 20 days of skin maceration in concrete tanks followed by 3 rounds of 'pigéage à pied' to release more sugar from the grapes before heading to the basket press (to avoid a surge of sugar during pressing). Aged in old barrels under their house. No added sulfur.


"2018 has overall been a good year. Not so much disease and no need to light any fires to prevent frost. There was a lot of rain in March, we thought it would be disastrous but in the end it wasn’t. The main problem ended up being drought during the summer months. We have harvested on the 15th of September, which was a quick and spontaneous decision: I was on my way back from Chandon (winery where Christian works) and drove past one of the vineyards. I stopped, tasted the grapes and realised it was time to go.

"In general, 2018 wasn't a typical year for Burgundy, the wines ended up with a much higher alcohol content than normal. What saved us were the colder nights, which helped to keep the balance and good acidity. All fermentations went well. The old tank struggled a bit at the end, so we added the lees from the other tank to help. As a result, the wine is rich, balanced and round. Less green than the more immediate 2017 vintage. The alcohol will integrate with time.

"Also, in 2018 we've had a lower yield than in 2017 for two reasons: 1) drought, the old vines suffered and 2) it was the second year of ploughing, therefore surface roots were cut (not intentionally), and the vines were not used to it. You could see the low vigour during pruning. This year during pruning we've noticed the vines look a lot stronger. It is satisfying to see the change with cover crops and ploughing, it took two years to get to this result."

- Morgane

 



As the stocks are really limitedplease let us know
ASAP if you would like some.

Once it's gone, it's gone!

WHOLESALE ONLY

 

A Chat with Roberto Henriquez

 
 
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Roberto Henriquez

Nacimiento, Bio-Bio, Chile

A native of the Chilean city of Concepción, Roberto – largely inspired by his uncle - has always dreamed of making wine. 

He studied to be an agronomist and enologist, then worked for large commercial wineries in Chile, South Africa and Canada. Returning to his homeland, Roberto spent some time with Louis Antoine Luyt, and this experience - as well as working with producers such as Mosse in France (Loire) - helped shape his perception of wine: natural winemaking was the path he wanted to follow.

Roberto is part of the very small-scale, zero-input agriculture and winemaking community of the Old South: the veteran farmers work traditionally, having never used chemicals. However nowadays, Chilean culture doesn’t pay much tribute to historic winemaking, and he felt he had to do something to try and keep tradition alive. 

Alex visited Roberto last summer:

"First of all, don't go to Chile during winter, it's very cold! And also very good for skiing. But seriously, I have learned a lot about a different approach to wine culture which I have never experienced before.

"Roberto has given real context to his wines and it was interesting to see the variety of different terroirs of País. We visited other winemakers in the area and were always welcomed with open arms, invited into their homes and served deep-fried Sopapilla bread which is meant for special occasions. Chile has an incredibly welcoming culture.

"One of my culinary highlights was visiting a food truck on the side of the road run by a lady who was selling oven-cooked empañadas with pickled green chilli and vinegar. She would sell out by 11.30am!

"Roberto has recently taken over a vineyard in Santa Juana, the 66th vineyard ever registered in Chile, which means it's hundreds of years old. The soils are clay, which give País more softness and elegance - so stay tuned!"



Do wine lovers think of Chile often when they consider the world's finest wines? The reality is that most do not, and therein lies a problem for the country's wine industry, as there are plenty of treasures to be found.



We've had a chat with Roberto:

What led you to be a natural winemaker?
"I have always dreamed of becoming a winemaker, since I was a child, I just didn't know which way I should go about it. After having initially worked with commercial wineries in Chile, South Africa and Canada I returned back to Chile and properly learned about the (nowadays widely discriminated) Pipeño winemaking style. It is a uniquely Chilean style that refers to wine stored in a pipa – a very large ageing vessel made of native Raulí beech wood. Culturally it means wine of and for the people. Grapes are traditionally fully destemmed, open fermented in lagar (massive foudres of raulí), foot-stomped and gravity-fed to pipa soon after fermentation so it can be enjoyed quicker. After experiencing the way the vines were treated at the big commercial wineries it was clear to me that it wasn't the way I wanted to work. What I wanted to do was continuing the Chilean tradition combined with what I have learned from the small natural wine producers i have worked with in France. I wanted to work with our traditional grape varieties in respect to the vines and soils, this is very important to me. My whole family is involved with the work around the vineyard and my uncle, who inspired me to become a winemaker, is also still producing his own wines in Itata, but on a small scale."


How do you treat your soils?
"In general, we do everything by hand. We cut the grass in spring, use animals for ploughing when we can. But the challenge we have here is that it is difficult to find people who will work the vines for you, and that is one of the main reasons why less and less winemakers are working traditionally. In this coastal range we've got 1000ha of winemaking regions and unfortunately most of it is worked with machinery.  Everyone is doing what they have to in order to keep their vines alive and survive financially. Unfortunately a lot of them then end up with cheap commercial wines which are sold in bulk and never even get bottled, which is a shame. About 60-70 years ago traditional winemaking was the way to go but nowadays it is a big challenge to keep up financially as well as logistically."


[Background: In the 19th century, as mining wealth grew in Santiago, the elite travelled to Europe and gained a taste for European culture and in particular, French wines. French varietals were brought over and planted on a massive scale in the central region close to the capital. As opposed to the very small-scale, zero-input agriculture and winemaking of the Old South, these modern plantings heralded the start of industrial viticulture and vinification. This continues to be winemaking based on unsustainable agriculture (heavy irrigation and chemical sprays) and the exploitation of traditional growers. The box wine and export industry relies on paying incredibly low prices for país grapes and blending them with French varietals to increase colour, alcohol and extraction. The industrialisation of winemaking in the hot centre definitively pushed small growers in the south out of the market, and now viticulture is dying as the price of grapes set by the monopoly of Concha y Toro, is too often below cost of production.
Source: www.cultivarwines.com]

So are there any other natural winemakers around?
"A couple, but I would say that in Chile in general there are only about 10. The natural winemaking philosophy is not easy to find here as there is no market in Chile for heritage wines. There are thousands of winemakers but most of them produce their wine commercially and sell it to big corporations. Also, as there is no official regulation around natural wine, there are loads of growers who say their wine is 'natural', even though it isn't, at all. There is a thin line between being honest about how exactly you make your wine, and making things up as that will bring you better sales."

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What influence does the soil have on your wines?
"For example, granite soils are typical for this coastal region of Chile. I find that they give personality but at the same time still leave plenty of room for the grapes to express themselves. So overall, I'd say granite soils are more neutral. While other soils affect the wine much more, I find that granite soils are less intrusive and therefore offer a good balance - give a hand to the vine, without leaving a heavy mark."

When will you start harvest? 
"We usually harvest here between March and April. Your spring, our autumn. For the last two years, we've had two rather cold seasons. A cold and late spring, cooler summer and generally low sugar concentration."

How noticeable is climate change in your region?
"I can tell now generally there is more cold but also humidity with hot summers, whereas 10 years ago each season was more distinct. There is also overall less rain. I wouldn't say there are catastrophic changes happening over here, just more of an unnatural shift."

Have you finished building your winery?
"So, my winery is opposite my house. We are constantly improving it but it is almost finished! We have started from nothing so that was a big challenge for us."

What are your plans for the future?
"I would like to expand and build another winery in Itata - this is not possible at the moment, but maybe one day!" 

If you could visit any other wine region in the world, where would it be and why?
"There are many that I want to visit. But especially the Canaries, because this is where our viticulture here in Chile comes from. The first ever vines brought to South America came from the Canaries. Each year I want to go but I haven't managed yet!"

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Now in Stock


White

2018 (Itata) Rivera del Notro White - Moscatel, Chasselas, Semillon
Manual harvest. A blend made with three traditional varieties from the coastal area of the Itata valley. 100 year old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in stainless steel (80%) and oak barrels (20%). Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Itata) Molino del Ciego - Semillon
Manual harvest. 100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in stainless steel (60%)  and oak barrels (40%). Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Itata) Corinto Super Estrella (Magnum) - Chasselas
Manual harvest. Chasselas, known in the area as Corinto. A limited production of only 400 magnums.100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling."This variety is not very appreciated by the locals but for us, it is a treasure."

2018 (Itata) Fundo Union White (Magnum) - Semillon
Manual harvest. The vineyard is located in the coastal area of the Itata valley, 8 km away from the sea. 100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling. 

Red

2018 (Bio-Bio) Rivera del Notro Red - Pais
Manual harvest. 200-year-old vines located on an alluvial piedmont 800m away from the Bío-Bío river. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in stainless steel tanks. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Bio-Bio) Santa Cruz de Coya - Pais
Manual harvest. 200-year-old vines. Vineyard located on the foothills of Nahuelbuta coastal range, Bío-Bío. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in 10-year-old oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Bio-Bio) Santa Cruz de Coya (Magnum) - Pais

2018 (Itata) Fundo Union Red - Pais
Manual harvest. The vineyard is located in the coastal area of the Itata valley, at  8 km from the sea. 100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in 10-year-old oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling. 

2018 (Itata) Ultimate Prensa (Magnum) - Moscatel, Pais
Manual harvest. 100-year-old vines. Last press made with musts from the whole harvest. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling. - "This wine is a one off production."

Roberto will be in London Feb 7 - 9,
for wine tasting requests, get in touch
here 

For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com

 

A Happy New 2020

 
 
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We would like to wish a very happy new year to all of our customers.

Wines Under The Bonnet was created in 2015 with the idea to promote naturally made wines we love and we wouldn't still be here if it wasn't for your support.

2019 has been a crazy and exciting ride for us: we have welcomed Tom to the team, Basile has relocated back to his hometown in France and is now our on site connection to our Muscadet growers, and - last but not least - we have added six new producers to our portfolio:


Ferme de Sept Lunes
Mataburro
2P Production
La Grange Aux Belles
Complemen'terre
Terres de ROA


We've got some very exciting plans for 2020, so watch this space!

Cheers and santé,

Bas, Al & Tom

 

La Boire - Nantes

 
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What is La Boire?

The 3rd edition of La Boire took place on Saturday 7 and Sunday 8 December 2019 in Nantes. A natural wine fair, organized by Pinards and Jus d'Ancenis with 18 winemakers from all over France.

This is where we’ve spent our Sunday: tasting promising new cuvées and meeting some familiar faces…

 
 
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Complémen'terre 

Le Pallet, Loire-Atlantique, France


Both Marion and Manu were born in Muscadet and have been around vineyards their whole lives. After a long time away working for winemakers in New Zealand (Felton Road Winery) and Chile (Domaine Clos Ouvert), they settled in 2013 in the village of le Pallet and work now with three grape varieties: Melon de Bourgogne (8 ha), Folle Blanche (0,68 ha) at la Haye-Fouassière, and Gamay (0,60 ha). The wines are all vinified by parcel with the aim of showing off the varied volcanic terroir of the region.

What’s new: 2018 Potion Mama | Pet Nat

Manu: “ ‘Potion Mama’ was originally meant to be called ‘Potion Magique’, but this name is already in use within the beverage industry. So ‘Mama’ comes from our names: MAnu and MArion. In addition it also refers to Mother Earth.”

Folle Blanche (20%) and Melon de Bourgogne (80%) grown on othogneiss and silt. Aged for 14 months.

2018 has been a hot vintage and the end result is a dry and aromatic pet nat.

 
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Rémi Sédès

Coteaux d’Ancenis, Nantes, France

Hailing from the Jura, Rémi studied agronomy when he arrived in the area to live with his Nantes-born wife. He worked for a couple of years with Vincent Caillé, and then spent time honing his red winemaking skills in Bordeaux before setting up on his own in 2013.

What’s new: 2018 Samplemousse | Rosé

Hand harvested Gamay, cold macerated for 4 hours and then fermented in cellar in fibreglass for 2 - 3 weeks. On lees until bottling.

Why ‘Samplemousse’? In France you’ve got a drink called Pamplemousse Rosé which has a slightly sweet, easygoing grapefruit taste that is more approachable for entry level wine drinkers.

Remi always found that the wine from his granite parcel reminded him of grapefruit, so ‘Samplemousse’ is his own, naturally farmed version, of the French Pamplemousse Rosé.

 
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Les Terres Bleues

France, Loire-Atlantique, La Chapelle-Glain

Xavière Hardy is a tough, determined woman who makes amazing juice while leaving as little mark on the land as possible. Enlisting the help of Ancenis grower Jacque Caroger, she lobbied the local council, who eventually relented and gave her permission to plant her vineyard. After analysing the terroir she chose Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Grolleau.

What’s new: 2018 Blanc Noir | Red

100% Black Grolleau, grown on blueschist. Direct press then fermented for 8 days in vats with and matured in barrels for 8 months. No added sulfur. The "Blanc de Noir" cuvée has produced a dry white wine, with a beautiful freshness and vivacity.

Xaviere: “I tried by chance the "Blanc de Noir", with a Munster and I really liked it because this wine came to "counterbalance" and "refresh" the Munster cheese which has a strong personality. Overall, it's typically the little white one to enjoy in the late morning, with oysters on the go!”